Today, many wild excursions later, nostalgia relives golden memories of that first trip. Like herd of gaur, calves and all, which grazed on unconcernedly letting us approach close. The glory of evening light on their backs as they ambled away followed by a flock of cattle egrets. The unexpected sighting of a lone old bull foraging down at a waterhole, magnificent even in past of his prime.

On our last evening in Kanha we waited by a stream, praying for tiger our guide suspected was around, to appear. After a certain point it did not matter any longer and we simply surrendered to electrifying atmosphere, jungle silence broken only by repeated calling of a jungle fowl, as darkness quickly descended and our driver rushed to get back before gates closed. The next morning Kanha saw an unexpected drizzle of rain. The temperature dropped sharply and an uncanny hush pervaded in jungle. Few animals were about and on this last safari we saw a different side of forest, eerie almost forbidding.

Later at gate we met with question again, “Any tigers?” “No, tough luck”, I said, “But what hell!”

For those interested, www.traveljini.com extensively covers destinations in India including wildlife.

Roozbeh Gazdar

Four: Try to learn at least a few words of language.

This will be greatly appreciated. My French is what you might describe as school girl (that was 25 years ago) but I do try when in France.  Often I receive reply in English but at least I tried.  I always apologise if I cannot speak language.  I don't assume that person I am talking to should speak English, I ask in their language if they speak English.  As I do have a Scottish accent, I try to speak more slowly and clearly than usual, certainly not raising my voice.

Five: Don't be too structured.

You should allow some time just to wander around, enjoy a leisurely lunch. You do have to plan an itinerary, or you can just waste a lot of time, but it doesn't have to be written in stone!  Allow yourself opportunity to be spontaneous.

  Six: Don't just stick to tourist traps.

Try to visit some authentic local restaurants, markets, villages, etc. where you will meet local people, rather than just other tourists.  Surely part of reason for going abroad it to experience at least a little of local flavour, not just spend all your time with other tourists.

Seven: Book your accommodation in advance.

This may mean that you miss out on a charming establishment you come across in your travels, (you could always stay there on your another trip). However it will mean that you don't waste precious time going from hotel to hotel trying to find a room, having to arrive early enough at your next destination to look for accommodation. I am not even convinced that you save money by last minute searches.