Trailing the Tiger !Written by Roozbeh Gazdar
So there are destinations and destinations, each offering their distinct USPs. Hot attractions that draw tourists seeking an ‘experience’ to carry home – a trophy to substantiate a battery of travel yarns. But in this craze for acquiring best seller, our jetsetter often overlooks finer details – colours that give a place meaning and significance. After all isn’t great thing about travel, joy of savouring an authentic experience in its entirety… like succulent slice of a fruit, stones, rind and all?The tiger is undoubtedly India’s most charismatic export and twenty seven odd tiger reserves dotting country cope with a steady file of tourists descending with single-minded determination of encountering big cat – an encounter resourcefully ‘arranged’ by guides and rangers with persistence to match. Make no mistake. To a wildlife freak - and I belong to species - a tiger sighting is climax of safari, delectable icing on cake. Often however obsessed tiger chaser, fanatically pursuing his quarry, remains obdurately blind to countless other wonders that make up typical Indian jungle experience, a realization that sank its teeth in during our first trip to Kanha Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh. Kanha is beautiful; a glimpse of its ancient forest giving way to open meadows and again erupting into thick sal or bamboo, suffices to counter any residual hangover of braving hazards of Indian state transport travel. And queuing for entry to safari, even jeeps seem to purr in suppressed expectation. Kanha has often been described as best place in world to see a tiger; alas during our visit it did not turn up even an apology of a pugmark, let alone a whisker. And we were not alone. “Seen any?” “No, you?” None” was common refrain between jeeps. “It seems to be one of those days when for some unexplainable reason no tigers are spotted any where in park,” consoled guide. It was true. During three days we were there not a single self-respecting tiger chose to disclose itself, not even as far as Mukki range on other side of park. A wasted trip then? Sure, if you discount sambar, herds of gaur, and hundreds of chital and langurs and peafowl. Any rare sightings? Not unless you include barasinghas (Kanha is only place in world where you find hard ground variety of this species). At very beginning we impressed upon our guide that besides top cat, we were also interested in other lesser creatures that constituted food chain. Luckily he took our request to heart so that we were amply rewarded: a black necked stork wading in a stream, a collared scops owl simulating a dry tree stump, a crested serpent eagle surveying terrain, nothing missed his trained eye. Suddenly he would motion driver to stop and point. Only after following his frantic gestures and urgent whispers would we see it. A barking deer, outline barely discernable, crouching in a bush. A monitor lizard clumsily scampering over a rocky slope. Or a woodpecker excavating its larder.
| | Seven Secrets for Successful TravelWritten by Karen Bryan
ndependent travel in Europe - Seven Secrets for SuccessOne: Do not try to see and do too much. You may end up actually seeing very little. I think it is better to see more of fewer countries/regions and see them properly. You may not want to stay in one location for your whole trip. However if you choose carefully it may be possible to do several day trips from one central location. If you do decide to tour, consider spending at least two nights in some of your destinations. It can be quite tiring being on move every day, packing and unpacking. Two: Decide on mode of transport. Driving will give you more flexibility but can be daunting at times and is not recommended if you mainly wish to visit cities. You may decide to take your own car if you live in Europe. If you fly you can hire a car. Beware of extra charges for additional drivers, insurance excesses, airport charges, out of hours charges etc. I always book a hire car through a UK company, with no excess. If you use a budget airline try to only book direct flights. If you book a two let journey, budget airlines will not assist you, as they only operate a point to point service. Public transport is pretty good in most of Europe. There are also several budget airlines you can use between countries e.g. Ryanair and Easyjet. Three: Be aware of security of possessions. Use a money belt, hotel safe etc. Do not have all your money/cards in one purse or wallet. If you lose it you are in trouble. This happened to me when I was in Milan: I was travelling alone and was left penniless. My credit card company did transfer funds to me but it took 24 hours! I had to borrow 10 euros from hotel receptionist. Make sure you have travel insurance and if there is an incident get a written report from local police station, to enable you to make a claim.
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