Vast tracts of rainforest wilderness veined with large, pristine river systems attract adventure travelers, birdwatchers, and scientists from all over world. Popular destinations are Brownsberg Nature Park, Central Suriname Nature Reserve and Galibi Nature Reserve, all managed by STINASU, Foundation for Nature Conservation in Suriname.

Visitors to Brownsberg, a plateau overlooking Van Blommenstein lake created by construction of hydro-electric Afobaka dam, are often awakened by eerie "hooooos" of howler monkeys. Even though you know they're monkeys, sound can be so deafening if they are close that it will raise hair on back of your neck.

Fungu Island, in middle of Coppename River - best reached by a twin-engine bush plane - is headquarters to Central Suriname Nature Reserve, designated a Natural World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000. The island, surrounded by Raleigh waterfalls complex, is known as largest bird bonanza of South America. Dr. Jim Thorsell (who has reviewed World Heritage Natural Site nominations for IUCN since 1985 and has visited 600 parks in over 100 countries), describes CSNR as "the most pristine tropical protected area in world."

The beach at Galibi Nature Reserve, a rich coastal habitat, is a nesting ground for five species of endangered sea turtles. Environmentalists and marine turtle biologists frequently visit research station at Babunsanti. Luckily - for turtles - this beautiful Atlantic beach is only accessible by boat and too far from capital to be a viable vacation spot.

Traveling a few hours up Suriname River from Paramaribo, you can visit Jodensavanne, site of remains of new world's only autonomous Jewish agrarian community. In late 1600s Sephardic Jews migrated to Dutch Guiana to escape Inquisition. A Dutch-influenced geometrical town plan surrounded by sugar plantations included open roads to synagogue from all four sides, surprising in a time of peril from rival European powers, runaway slaves and Amerindians. The central brick ruin is of synagogue itself, Bracha veShalom.

In mid-1700s, local political upheaval and decrease in value of cane sugar caused Jodensavanne's decline and eventual abandonment. Two overgrown cemeteries remain, each containing hundreds of European-made bluestone marble grave markers, some elaborately illustrated despite prohibition by Jewish law. A third "freeholder's cemetery" of hand-crafted wood with African sankofa symbols and concrete grave markers is rapidly decaying.

In past four years, Jodensavanne has joined such notable locations as Machu Picchu on World Heritage list of "One Hundred Most Endangered Sites."

Yes, there are malarial mosquitoes in interior (not in Paramaribo), but long-sleeved shirts, bug repellent and a good malaria prophylactic will provide protection. There are exceptionally few reported cases of malaria among visitors to Suriname.

Suriname is located on coast of South America between Guyana and French Guiana, and above Brazil. On edge of vast Amazon basin, Suriname is a country with a combination of remoteness, history, and relative inaccessibility that has left this nation with both highest percentage of rainforest cover and one of lowest population densities on Earth. Diverse culture, historic attractions, pristine rainforest, and a spicy, Asian-influenced cuisine will delight traveler who makes effort to visit Suriname. - Read Jetsetters Magazine feature on Guyana Ecotourism. - Read Jetsetters Magazine Feature on Guyana's new jungle preserve.

A steady stream of leaf-cutter ants crosses our path as we climb steps carved into side of hill from Suriname River to Jodensavanne. We are in broad savanna that separates northeast corner of Amazon basin from coastal plain of Guyana Shield..

The Suriname River snakes through rainforest of Suriname to Atlantic Ocean. Several kilometers upriver from capital of Paramaribo lie ruins of Jodensavanne, near Cassipoera Creek. For years, voracious jungle has crowded brick ruins of Jodensavanne's Jewish synagogue, Bracha veShalom (Blessing and Peace), constructed in 1685. In 1999 Jodensavanne was added to world monuments list of "100 Most Endangered Sites" by World Monuments Watch, a global program launched four years earlier to call attention to critically imperiled cultural heritage sites and direct financial support to their preservation. Other notable sites on list are Peru's Machu Picchu and Ancient Pompeii in Naples, Italy.

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By Carolyn Proctor - Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent - at www.jetsettersmagazine.com

Air and gravity. As long as both exist (which we can be thankful for), a sailplane can glide. The term "sailplane" refers to aircraft without an engine, with a glide ratio of greater than 20:1; that is, for every vertical foot plane descends, it travels 20 horizontal feet (gliders, on other hand, have a glide ratio of less than 20:1). The high performance model we rode in had a glide ratio of 35:1, which allows for more maneuverability. And although many people assume sailplanes are flimsy, lightweight vehicles, modern sailplanes are built to withstand higher G-forces than those experienced by commercial airlines (as Howie demonstrated to us with stomach-scrambling effectiveness).

Sailplanes have climbed to altitudes greater than 45,000 feet, flown distances farther than 1,400 miles and can fly at maximum speeds of more than 200 mph. Because of aerodynamic efficiency of modern sailplanes, pilots can remain in flight for 6 or 7 hours at a time if conditions are favorable. "In a sail plane, we're basically continuously descending. What really limits us, however, is our bladder," Howie informed us matter-of-factly, "We can stay up for 5, 6, 7 hours at a time if we want, but at a certain point, you need a break."

The sail plane is launched either slingshot style via ¾" bungy cord or, more commonly, under tow from a propeller plane. On our ascent behind our propeller plane, I was struck by how smooth and graceful flight is. The only sound is air rushing through vents in canopy to provide ventilation. We could feel air growing cooler as we rose higher (maybe it was just tranquility of flight). At around 2,000 to 3,000 feet, I released tow cable and our sailplane was at mercy of gravity, aerodynamics and Howie. We soared above rolling foothills of Palomar Mountains, brown with summer heat. Highway 79 below us was a ribbon of gray, with matchbox cars inching along. I felt bad for those stuck on terra firma, missing out on what we were experiencing above them. Neener neener neener. In distance I could see tge sea - Salton Sea Desert lapping up on foothills. A truly hypnotic moment. I could easily see how one could get hooked on this. I imagined myself after a long week in grind heading straight to airport, strapping myself into my sailplane, launching into sky and soaring above my worries until I forgot what they were.

When our 30 minutes of soaring smooth skies was over, after dives and banks and buzzed mountaintops and all possible Top Gun references, Howie began our descent to land. Landing is done in a fashion similar to that of powered aircraft: descent (during which our airspeed topped out at 200mph), an approach to runway, and touch down. "Sailplanes can land in a surprisingly short distance if need be," Howie informed as reassuringly. Right. Crashing. But touchdown was perfect- a perfectly smooth landing for a perfectly smooth ride.

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By Josh Edelson - Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent at www.jetsettersmagazine.com