Continued from page 1
Monday morning, about "tenish", La Belle Époque glides gently away from
Auxerre waterfront. Before
week is ended, we will travel through 31 locks to
town of Clamecy. Barge speed is limited to 3 mph on
canals and 10 mph on
rivers.
Soon we reach our first écluse or lock. La Belle Époque slides into a chamber to rest while a set of gates at each end closes so that
water level can be raised or lowered. Potted flowers and a picturesque stone house indicate where
éclusier (lock keeper) lives. At Captain Lee's call he comes out to manage
gates. Timing is important, however. If we arrive while
éclusier is at lunch we will just have to wait. The French take their dejeuner very seriously.
In France there are over 2,700 miles of inland waterways including a 750-mile network of connecting canals. Many locks are hundreds of years old. Most canals were built in
19th century, but some are two centuries older. Because canal barges were originally horse drawn, poplar trees were planted along
way to protect
horses from
sun.
The Canal du Nivernais passes through western Burgundy, crossing
Yonne Valley and sometimes merging with
Yonne River itself. It was originally built to transport wood from
Morvan forests to meet
firewood demands of Paris. This wood trade was
main source of income for this area until
1920s. The canal saw
last of its merchant traffic in
1970s.
As we glide by a rolling patchwork of green hills and picturesque vineyards, lunch is served: quails in crème fraîche sauce, tuna pasta salad, caprisi salad, fruits, a white Savignon St-Bris and a red Chitry. There are two kinds of cheese with exotic names—Delice de Bourgogne and St. Mair de Tourraine.
After lunch there is another lock, and while
barge rests we pile into European Waterways' minivan. Nick takes us to St-Bris le Vineux, a little wine village above a network of medieval passages. At
stone farmhouse (complete with satellite TV dish) of Monsieur Bersan, we descend into an ancient cave for a wine-tasting. The cool air is strongly scented with damp, wet wood and thriving mold. Everywhere there is a flat surface, wine bottles lay in horizontal slumber.
"This is
only place in Burgundy
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Carolyn Proctor, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com

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