Wine Around The Bend – Burgundy Barge Bliss Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/cruise02/barge/france/epoque/burgundy.html
Reflected sunlight from
water outside dances on
chestnut ceiling of my cabin
first morning I awaken aboard
luxury barge La Belle Époque. I get up to look out
open porthole window and am greeted with a friendly squawk. A large white swan approaches expectantly, followed by several mallard ducks. We are eye level with each other. Having no bread to offer, I quickly close
window.
After a shower in
tiled bathroom and rub-down with a thick nautical blue towel, I head upstairs. On an antique oak sideboard in
main salon hostesses Fanny and Barbara have laid out a breakfast of granolas, yogurt, and fresh fruit. While I was still gazing at
ceiling of my cabin, Captain Lee had been in
village of Auxerre buying fresh baguettes, croissants and pain chocolate.
La Belle Époque is one of several luxury canal barges operated in France by European Waterways. Once a working canal barge, it has been redesigned with both elegance and passenger comfort in mind. The salon is hunter green, rose and mahogany, with comfortable banquettes and vases of fresh flowers. There are a sun-deck, Jacuzzi spa, sauna, fitness studio, and bicycles for guests to ride along
canal paths.
It's a fine fall day in France, still summer in
afternoons, with nights that offer a crisp reminder of winter to come. This state-of-the-art hotel barge carries just twelve passengers, with six crew members to take care of every possible passenger need.
Nick, our guide, had picked us up in Paris
previous day in front of
Hotel Ampère. A two-hour journey by minivan through rolling French countryside had brought us to
medieval town of Auxerre, where La Belle Époque and her crew awaited. We enjoyed a champagne welcome accompanied by freshly-baked popovers. After meeting
crew and getting settled into our cabins, we explored
cobblestone streets and fashionable shops of Auxerre.
At
junction of
Canal du Nivernais and
River Yonne, Auxerre was a pivotal town on
ancient north-south road through France. It was a big market town for lumber and wine as well as an important spiritual center. Surrounded by timber-framed buildings are a 15th century tower with a large decorative 17th century clock.
Our first dinner aboard La Belle Époque introduced
talents of chef Guy. "Scallops Mating with Snails", followed by a charolet filet with red pepper purée and potatoes gratinée au dauphin. Dessert was shortbread with raspberry coulis. A white St. Veran and a red Aloce Coton (wines of
Burgundy area) accompanied
meal, and we discovered there is no limit to
number of bottles we may consume.