The second course of evening: Classic Lobster Bisque ($14), with chef adding Lobster Oil with a garnish of fresh cayenne pepper and a Roulade infusion of scallops. Another choice could have been Chilled Bell Pepper and Tomato Soup with Crab Cocktail ($12), or a more expensive choice, Russian Beluga Caviar “AAA” at market price.

The third course: Star Anise Crested Sea Scallops — two scallops at about an ounce each sautéed in butter and garlic with herbs placed on a cloud of celery root puree with lemongrass and orange reduction ($31). Another outstanding choice could have been Dover Sole Meunière (Veal Demi-Glace Sautéed Bok Choy, and Lemon Confit — $40).

The fourth course is entrée of Sautéed Beef Tenderloin (Rossini Style) — four ounces of tenderloin cooked to temperature — Chef Andre recommends medium rare, with a ½ medallion of fois gras and a drizzle of black truffle and merlot, coming with a side of Potato Croquettes, making their arrival in a cute, small personal cast iron pot with little handles, keeping spud pinky fingers bursting hot ($38).

Other finely designed Lutèce entrées include:

Farm Raised Chicken (Cocotte Style — $29) Roasted Muscovy Duck (Peking-Style — $29) Pepper-Crusted Rib Eye ($36) Grilled Colorado Rack of Lamb ($39) Pan-Roasted Squab ($31) Milk Fed Veal Chop ($41), or: Braised Beef Short Rib ($30).

The final fine dining endeavor is Verona Chocolate Mousse Cake with hardened shell. No woman alive can deny this delicacy – nor any man!

Originally out of New York City, Lutèce opened four years ago (2001) at Venetian Resort (the New York venue is closed), and designed and blueprinted for two stories (but now Vivid Night Club is upstairs). The fashionable (A metallic faux teakwood swirls across main room.), contemporary restaurant — no 90 degree angles anywhere — has seen a series of celebrity chefs, including David Faye and Gustav, principal Lutèce owner, and now Andre Becker.

Lutèce, which is ancient name of Paris, France, is an intimate cubbyhole of a restaurant, with only 18 tables in main room where we watched from a small alcove glorious sun setting across Strip; there are also 16 tables in private salon and 16 patio tables that are perfect with right night temperatures.

Lutèce is open

To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/food/vegas/ark/lasvegas.html

Kriss Hammond, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com

At table, only standard today is flavor, and red or white wines are served interchangeably. Traditionally, red is for meat and white is for chicken or fish - but these days, you can do as you please!

When wine is added directly to a dish during cooking, lower heat immediately or meat will toughen.

7. Fats and Oils: For true gourmet cooking, there is no substitute for butter unless particularly specified. Sweet butter is preferable, because amount of salt varies in commercial brands; if salt butter is used, decrease amount of salt in a recipe and check seasoning just before you serve.

Butter is absolutely essential for sauces and basting, but cannot be used for frying; at high temperatures, it decomposes chemically and burns.

For Deep-Fat Frying, use liquid or hydrogenated oils such as Crisco. These can be re-used once or twice, if you allow sediment to settle and decant (pour off) clear top fat after each frying. Once frying fat has been used for fish, it cannot be used for anything else! If you enjoy fried foods, it's wise to have two fat kettles - one for fish, and one for everything else.

For all Italian, Spanish or Latin-American dishes, a tablespoon of olive oil should replace butter in starting dish.

Lard is excellent for greasing baking potatoes or pan-frying fish. It cannot be re-used, but is inexpensive enough to discard and start fresh next time. Bacon grease is equally good for baking potatoes or to saute fish, and can be smeared thickly over chicken breasts or squab before roasting. Because of its positive flavor, only tangy herbs will combine with it for added taste.

No gourmet cook ever uses margarine for anything.

8. Meat Glazes: For a handsome browned surface to meat or poultry, mix a tablespoon of commercial gravy coloring with two table spoons of water. Paint all exposed parts of poultry or meat before placing in oven.

9. Shallots are a small onion bulb resembling garlic in formation of cloves, but very mild in flavor. Typically French, they are not always available but make all difference in a sauce if they can be had. Minced scallions (spring onions) are an acceptable substitute - and in moments of stress, a tablespoon of grated white onion will equal 2 minced shallots.

10. Grated orange and lemon peel are readily available in jars; a teaspoon equals grated rind of a whole medium- sized fruit.

11. Garlic can be bought powdered (a quarter teaspon equals a fresh clove), but a garlic press will produce a much better flavor from a peeled garlic clove.

Onion and garlic juice are also available; use them purely for flavoring, as many dishes are better with sauteed pieces of onion. Onion flakes are good for home-cooking, but not sufficient for gourmet results.

Good luck with your quick gourmet sauces!