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In Los Angeles it seems all waiters in fine restaurants are awaiting their big break as actors; in Las Vegas it seems that all waiters and captains have advanced college degrees — and that is what is making Strip one of hottest dining areas in world.

It is so refreshing to not only dine in style, but also to carry on philosophical discussions with captain of our table — so is case with our wonderful experience at Lutèce, inside Venetian Resort and Casino, only restaurant in hotel facing Strip and overlooking Grand Canal. Our captain, Jason, is a pleasurable and congenial young man, recently married, working on his PhD in Philosophy and Ancient Civilizations, so naturally gamut of conversation ranges from recent Aristotle scroll high tech computer deciphering to wine from ancient Rome.

We start evening with Evian water but Lutèce (loo - tess) offers Pellegrino sparkling water as well, which we follow with a modestly priced bottle of Brouilly Beaujolais Cru, Chateau de la Chaize, ’02 (or at $11 a glass), made from pure Gamay grapes. According to Jason, it is one of few red grapes that should be slightly chilled, like most white wines.

Lutèce is one of two Ark restaurants in Venetian Resort, and it has one of best wine selections in Las Vegas, in a town with some of best cellars in world. The extensive wine menu includes crisp white blends, unusual Syrahs (even a petit Syrahs), extensive champagnes, prestige Cuvees, Meritage/Proprietary varietals, and even rare finds like Saint Estephe and Saint Julien and Saint Emilion and Puiseeguin Saint Emilion. The most expensive bottle in their line-up is probably Chateau Mouton Rothschild ’82 at $2400 a bottle.

Our celebrity chef of evening, Andre Becker, recommends, as does Jason, five course tasting menu that begins with an appetizer of Scottish Smoked Salmon on Baby Frisee Salad, and Citrus Crème Fraiche Vinaigrette ($16); freshest I have had since I left Celtic isles.

It is true that many great gourmet dishes involve a special sauce, which used to take hours to prepare. For quick gourmet chef, there's a way around this:

1. Hollandaise and Béarnaise: Both are available in glass jars. You should be able to find them in your local gourmet shop or supermarket.

2. Madeira, Armoricaine, Newburg, Supreme, et al: These, too, are available in jars or frozen, and will transform humble hamburger or leftover into a gourmet's dream.

3. Bottled Meat Sauces: Diable, Robert or Cumberland sauce, Worcestershire, and a wide range of mustards from Devilled to Bahamian to Dijon. Wash your hands thoroughly, use a judicious few tablespoons of whatever you fancy, and rub it thoroughly into chops and steaks. This replaces marinades which used to take hours.

4. Dessert Sauces: Be cautious about these! There are lots of edible varieties - but very few that come up to a gourmet's standard! . . . as you will see in our gourmet dessert section, there are innumerable quick tricks with liqueurs and fresh fruit for presenting gourmet desserts in a minute. ( http://www.easy-gourmet-cooking.com/gourmet-desserts/ )

5. Basting Sauces: Here you begin to be a gourmet chef, for a basting sauce is largely invention based on experience as you grow proficient with recipes. Basting sauces are used with fish, meat and poultry. Generally, they are melted butter blended with herbs - or spices - or fruit and fruit peels - with or without a dash of cooking wine. The precise ingredients depend upon final flavor desired: tangy, sultry, or sweetish.

The basting sauce should be made at start of cooking operation, placed over lowest possible heat, allowed to sit and grow acquainted with itself. A quarter pound of butter makes an adequate basting sauce; half a pound is sometimes better-if you can bring yourself to it!

The basic procedure is to combine butter chunks and desired seasonings or flavorings in a small saucepot (a stainless steel one-cup measure with a handle is satisfactory), and to obtain full savory blend by simmering gently during first steps of searing meat or poultry, firming fish flesh, etc. A basting sauce is used to moisten and flavor a dish during its cooking; it is brushed directly onto roasting meat or poultry with a pastry brush at 10 or 15 minute intervals, or poured over fish and broiled dishes every 5 minutes for quick cookery.

For long cooking roasts, when basting sauce has all been used, a roaster baster will pick up pan juices for moistening dish.

6. Wine & Wine Sauces: "The better wine, better dish" is gourmet standard ... although it's not necessary to buy fine vintage drinking wines for use in kitchen. If you have good local wine, do use it for cooking.