Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows

Written by John Rocco

Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows These days a lot of homeowners are replacing their old windows with vinyl windows usingrepparttar retrofit style of window frame. This is particularly true inrepparttar 100030 west, and specifically, in California. The number one arguement that I have heard against usingrepparttar 100031 retrofit method, is that it is susceptible to water leaks. Well, that's true if you don't do it properly. But, if you do a complete tearout of your old window down torepparttar 100032 studs, you're going to have water leak issues there as well if you don't installrepparttar 100033 new window properly. So I think that arguement is, well, all wet. So, let me tell yourepparttar 100034 best way to install your retrofit windows that will ensure that water cannot get in.

There is an old song that goes, "It never rains in California, but girl don't they warn ya, it pours, man it pours". For those of you in California, you know how true this is. While California doesn't get a lot of annual rainfall, when it does rain, it can come down in buckets due torepparttar 100035 close proximity torepparttar 100036 ocean. So, you want to be sure that your windows are well sealed. If you are installing retrofit frames against a stucco house, you want to put a thick bead of sealant right onrepparttar 100037 outside face ofrepparttar 100038 old window frame, allrepparttar 100039 way around. Latex caulk should work fine, but if you want to spend a little more to getrepparttar 100040 best sealant available, use 100% silicone. Depending onrepparttar 100041 number of windows you will be doing, this extra cost can add up. You pay approximately $1 for a tube of acrylic latex caulk, and $4 or more for a tube of 100% silicone. You are going to use 1-3 tubes per window, depending onrepparttar 100042 size. So you can see how it could add up. Here is a trick that I used to do to save a little money; The most vulnerable part of your installation isrepparttar 100043 top ofrepparttar 100044 window, because gravity will haverepparttar 100045 water running down fromrepparttar 100046 roof torepparttar 100047 ground. It's not likely that water is going to find it's way throughrepparttar 100048 sides or bottom. So, I used to carry two caulking guns, and load one withrepparttar 100049 silicone, andrepparttar 100050 other withrepparttar 100051 acrylic caulk. I would runrepparttar 100052 silicone accrossrepparttar 100053 top ofrepparttar 100054 old frame, and caulkrepparttar 100055 sides and bottom. Then, put your new window intorepparttar 100056 opening and have a helper hold it firmly in place while you plumb and level it, then screw it into place. After you haverepparttar 100057 window completely installed, your final step should be to caulk whererepparttar 100058 retrofit lip meetsrepparttar 100059 stucco. Here again, I used to use white silicone onrepparttar 100060 top, and caulk onrepparttar 100061 sides and bottom. You now have a double barrier against water infiltration. After about a week, checkrepparttar 100062 sealant around each window for signs of cracking. Because stucco is usually uneven, there could have been gaps that were larger in some areas than in others. If you don't forcerepparttar 100063 caulk intorepparttar 100064 gap to completely fill it,repparttar 100065 caulk can sag before drying, causing a crack to form. Simply recaulk over any cracks that you see. You can checkrepparttar 100066 silicone on top as well, but because silicone dries like a rubber substance, you shouldn't see any cracks there.

Designing a Good Lighting Plan

Written by Paul Forte

You are doing a remodel and know that you want to add some lighting torepparttar room, but your stumped. Where do I start isrepparttar 100029 most common question I get asked. There are some basic guidelines and factors that can help you determine where to start and how to proceed.

First let's takerepparttar 100030 room and it's needs. Different rooms require different lighting solutions. Rooms like bedrooms, living rooms, dens and basements can be properly illuminated with a simple general lighting plan. In rooms up to about 12' x 12', one ceiling light that can hold bulbs that combined equal about 120 watts is sufficient. For a better and more evenly disbursed light, 4 recessed lights about 40" off each corner works wonderfully.

A living room or den may be a rectangle as opposed to a square. A room that is 15' x 12' would be more evenly lit with 6 recessed cans. In these rooms lighting can be supplemented with wall sconces and or table or floor lamps.

Kitchens and bathrooms require much more thought. In these rooms, where tasks are performed, it is important thatrepparttar 100031 lighting level be high enough to perform these tasks safely and comfortably. In a good kitchen lighting plan allrepparttar 100032 work areas will be well lit. Placingrepparttar 100033 cans so thatrepparttar 100034 centers line up directly aboverepparttar 100035 outside edge ofrepparttar 100036 cabinets isrepparttar 100037 best solution. This provides ample light and avoids shadows while working atrepparttar 100038 counters. Spacing in a kitchen is also very important. Keepingrepparttar 100039 recessed lights about 4 feet apart and no more than 5 feet, will assure you have even spread of light.

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