Why You Should Never Hit Your Dog- Even When Training

Written by Adam G. Katz


Dear Adam:

I will try and make this short and include onlyrepparttar details I think will help. I HAVE readrepparttar 125725 entire book on line. I will pick up all ofrepparttar 125726 tapes along withrepparttar 125727 book when I come to USA in May.

I live in a third world country. Most ofrepparttar 125728 dogs here are wild, mixed breed or mistreated.

We went to another part ofrepparttar 125729 country to obtain a pure bred dog. He is bred to guard sheep... an older breed and very large. Our dog is 9 weeks old and most ofrepparttar 125730 time is good... just regular puppy stuff.

My problem is that I cannot obtain a pinch collar or anything else for giving corrections until I come to USA in May. Sometimes our dog is very aggressive if wanting to do opposite of what we want. Seems he is challenging more often and with greater aggressiveness...snapping and biting. These dogs here are very UN-domesticated! Any suggestions on how to give a correction with hitting? I growl, spit in food. Don't have kennel or crate yet. Need to find materials and build one...difficult here. Help.

He is smart and I don't want to give up yet, but I feel like I am doing everything wrong without proper correction tools. Thanks in advance.

- Paula

Dear Paula:

Never hit your dog.

I have no idea why you cannot order dog training supplies from somewhere in Europe or have them shipped from America?

Dog Too Spoiled To Walk On Leash

Written by Adam G. Katz


Dear Mr. Katz:

I have a 4 month old female pup, AmStaff/Boxer (we think - she was a rescue). She responds well to all training, EXCEPT for walking and heeling.

We've practicedrepparttar loose-leash "turning on a dime" technique described in your book and audio tape at length, but she refuses to cooperate.

It's not a matter of distraction - when I attempt to train her in this style, she pulls back with all her strength. Whenrepparttar 125724 loose leash is snapped, she sits, paws braced, or lays down on her back. These responses are immediate.

I've tried instantly righting her, and continuingrepparttar 125725 training, but she responds as above just as quickly. This can go on indefinitely. I've tried correcting her with a low "No," and praising her if she responds correctly for even an instant. I've tried using treats to get her to at least walk with me briefly...... all to no success.

What else should I try? Thanks, Geoff

Dear Geoff,

It's a good question you've asked.

First, you DO NOT want to workrepparttar 125726 dog around distractions at this point inrepparttar 125727 game.

Second, you should not be tellingrepparttar 125728 dog, "No!" and jerkingrepparttar 125729 leash for this behavior. Instead, you need to simply gluerepparttar 125730 leash to your belt and keep walking.

Now here's where your problem will arise: You've already inadvertently taught your dog that if she kicks and screams long enough (or rolls on her back and throws a tantrum)... that eventually you will stop walking and come to see what's wrong.

The only problem is... NOTHING IS WRONG!

It's like if I take you in a helicopter and drop you off inrepparttar 125731 middle ofrepparttar 125732 desert and tell you that I'm going to leave you there, but will eventually come back and pick you up in half an hour (or 2 hours, or a whole day!!!) ... you will simply sit there and not attempt to remedy your situation, as you know that I'm coming back to pick you up. Eventually, this situation will end and I'll come back and your problems will be over.

However, if I instead drop you off inrepparttar 125733 middle ofrepparttar 125734 desert and tell you that I'm never coming back... then all ofrepparttar 125735 sudden you're in a position where you MUST START TRYING DIFFERENT THINGS TO BETTER YOUR SITUATION.

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