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Maybe it was small, closely-knit communities we passed through on our way to French Broad Outpost Ranch that told us we had ventured back in time—the ones that sold handmade Indian blankets and produce from small wooden buildings that clearly needed attention but more than made up for it in ambiance. Communities where folk still walked down town and met outside barber shop on a rusty old bench to gossip and talk about weather.

Everyone waved to my girlfriend and me as if they knew our names—not from systematic reaction, but in a sincere, simple way.

But it wasn't until we passed green draw bridge that was shrugging off paint like a piece of whittled wood in an old man's hand that our epiphany had come true. We crossed some cosmic time barrier into simple Deep Southern life where Smoky Mountains bellowed campfire fragrances of burning poplar and beech in a misty fog that lowered its tentacle-like fingers down range and settling into valleys.

White-capped mountains towered over us as we snaked down dirt road toward ranch. To left was an elevated train-track, which we later found out was still guiding trains every few hours. The train pulled 49 cars of cargo.

On right, French Broad River swiftly passed by, untouched by time, seemingly peaceful and beautiful and housing more memories then anything unable to tell stories should.

The trees opened their arms at end of road, revealing a rustic four building complex that looked sleepy and peaceful, as if an artist had brushed a replica of a gold-rush town. Behind office stood two buildings butted against side of a mountain. One of buildings contained a dining hall on first floor that transformed into a square dance floor later at night and second floor was a saloon, complete with barstools made from horse saddles.

Cool mountain air makes you sleep great at French Broad Outpost.

The building to left of dining hall housed sleeping quarters for weary traveler. There were four rooms in building, each with bunk-beds and a main bed with head-board and foot-board made of wood.

A black and white cat scurried in front of us as we pulled up to office, holding a prize in form of a field mouse in its lips.

To get to Maho Bay you have to get to St. John, U.S.V.I. To get to St. John you have to take ferry from Charlotte Amalie or Red Hook on St. Thomas. Getting to St. Thomas is easy, linked to world with an international airport.

Once past ferry dock at Cruz Bay you enter a realm of serene nature and relaxation—a time gone by, slow, quiet, way Carib used to be.

Surrounded by United States Virgin Islands Natiional Park, Maho Bay Camps is reached by unique canvas-topped, ten passenger iguana-green and open air Land Rover jitneys that grind over paved and graveled roads to get to Maho Bay Camps.

Maho Bay Camps is wrapped tightly above Maho Bay, sprawling ladder-like up steep hillside, and it is one of world's first eco-lodges devised to bring natural elemnts right into your sleeping environ. Built in1976 with only 18 tent cottages built on 16 foot wooden platforms, using hand construction techinques to protect environment.

The tent city rests beneath a tangled Caribbean forest that provides privacy. Translucent fabric on wood frames, screened windows and open air terraces take advantage of cooling Virgin Islands trade winds. Many units have beautiful hillside views of turquoise Caribbean waters, nearby islands and spectacular sunsets.

Each tent has a separate sleeping area with comfortable twin beds. An extra mattress is behind sleeping-couch in living area. Bed linens, blankets, towels, cooking and eating utensils are all provided, including propane stive and ice cooler. Every tent-cottage has its own private deck, electric outlets, lights and fans. Barbecue areas and fresh water are available along walkways.

Conveniently located bathhouses are equipped with modern, low-flush toilets and pull-chain showers connected to a recycling system which irrigates surrounding vegetation. If you rent Harmony Estates at top end of Maho Bay Camps, you have luxury of toilet and solar shower with tub built into your ecolodge for even more privacy.

Maho Bay is built for an outdoor experience, with a year-around tropical climate. Hike down rambling staircase to secluded white sand beach , or stop off at popular water sports center (with expert instruction) to arrange kayaking, windsurfing, sailing, snorkeling and scuba diving.

The watersports center opens a little too late for me, a person that likes to sea kayak as sun arises and paints scenery my favorite Caribbean colors. Be sure to ask about sailing adventures with private tour operators, one of whom was once a temporary employee of Camps, then a full time resident, and then finally a yachting entrepreneur who could never go back to old life.

Massage, yoga, National Park presentations, weddings, live music and other activities are also available. Glassblowing demonstrations turn Camp's beer and soda bottles and other recylables into their Trash to Treasure Art Center.

The immediate area around Maho Bay Camps has beautiful hiking trails, including walks to historic plantation ruins. The town of Cruz Bay offers active night life within half an hour via local taxi service.

Every paradise has drawbacks of course. Maho Bay Camps would be a tough struggle for those in wheelchairs. Swim before sand flies come out at dusk, and everything else will fall in place.

DINING OUTDOORS