The largest organ of
human body is skin. It protects our bodies from environment, maintains body temperature, excretes waste matter, gives sensory information to brain and regulates body moisture. We think about our skin more than any other part of our bodies, and we manifest that attention by investing our emotions and about 6 to 20 % of our disposable income into our skin (Lappe, 1996). It is worthy to consider, then, how cosmetic products affect our skin. In this article psycho-social impact of cosmetics will be examined as well as why cosmetics are deemed necessary. The physiology of skin, how cosmetics affect skin function and effects of synthetic and natural cosmetic ingredients on skin will also be considered.The Psycho-Social Impact of Cosmetics
Our society is preoccupied with "culture of beauty" (Lappe, 1996) which includes notion that our skin must always look young and appear free from blemish. Our psychological well-being is often closely enmeshed with perceptions of how our skin appears to ourselves and others. We define our self-image to include visible representation of our skin to others, so as a result, it has become "primary canvas on which our cultural and personal identity is drawn" (Lappe, 1996). Cosmetic companies set aside concepts of natural beauty so that flaws such as large pores, fine lines and wrinkles are brought to fore, influencing our spending habits in pursuit of flawless skin.
In animal kingdom, most male species are endowed with colourful physical attributes so that a less colourful, but wisely camouflaged female mate will be attracted to it. Humans do not have equivalent ornamentation, so women use cosmetics, specifically make-up, to decorate their faces to attract prospective mates.
The Need for Cosmetics
A cosmetic is any substance which, when applied, results in a temporary, superficial change (Anctzak, 2001). We use a myriad of cosmetics on our skin, from moisturizers to lipstick. Make-up alters our visual appearance by enhancing our facial features through artistic application of colour. It can beautify face and be used to express our sense of self to others. Make-up can hide blemishes, scars, under-eye circles or even out our skin tone. It can boost self-esteem, make us feel more attractive and increase our social acceptability in some social situations. Using make-up can contribute to a well-groomed image, which positively influences our confidence, self-esteem, health and morale.
Skin care cosmetics treat surface layer of skin by providing better protection against environment than skin left untreated. Creams treat skin's surface by imparting moisture to skin cells on outermost layer of skin. It also forms a thin barrier which traps moisture underneath, thereby preventing evaporation of water from skin's surface. Creams also accelerate hydration of skin cells on outer layer, giving skin a temporarily smooth, plump appearance. Exfoliants improve appearance of skin by sloughing away flaky skin, blackheads and some dead skin cells. Astringents improve skin tone and texture by swelling pore walls so dirt and debris do not collect within. Soaps loosen particles of dirt and grime by dissolving greasy residue left on skin from natural skin oils, creams and make-up.
The Physiology of Skin and How Cosmetics Affect Skin Function
Skin is made up of three main layers: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis (see picture).The epidermis is only layer we can see with our eyes and as we age, remarkable changes occur which are hidden from our view. For instance, skin gradually thins over time, especially around eyes. Some cosmeceuticals can minimally re-thicken skin, but process of thinning is inevitable. Elastin and collagen, located in dermis keep skin resilient and moist, but with ageing these fibres break down to create lines and wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation accelerates this process, and since few cosmetics can actually reach dermis, idea that a cosmetic can reverse this process is unfounded. The best way to prevent fine lines and wrinkles is to limit our exposure to sun and ultraviolet radiation.
The skin is a highly complex, dynamic tissue system. One square inch of skin is composed of 19 million cells, 625 sweat glands, 90 oil glands, 65 hair follicles, 19 000 sensory cells and 4 metres of blood vessels (Lappe, 1996). The outermost layer of epidermis is called cornified layer, and is made of sheets of keratin, a protein, and squames, dead, flat skin cells. It is our barrier against dehydration from environment. It receives its primary supply of moisture from underlying tissue, since constant contact from external environment tends to dry out skin's surface. When skin is exposed to dry conditions, cornified layer can become dry, brittle, firm and if untreated, it can crack and lead to infection. Creams create a waxy barrier to prevent dehydration and keep skin moist and supple. Underneath cornified layer lie six more layers of epidermis responsible for cell generation. The life cycle of skin cells within this layer takes approximately 28 days, so it may take three to four weeks to observe any changes at skin's surface from using a new cosmetic.
