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As I write this, I lie on my oversized bed, in my oversized suite in DoubleTree Hotel in Del Mar, California. On my right sits a 27 inch Zenith television complete with an interactive music jukebox, a pleasing digital movie selection, and a variety of video games patiently waiting for me to challenge them.

On my left hangs a set of curtains, which I choose to keep closed. From fourth floor, I have a breathtaking view of parking lot, but knowing that a few miles down road waits a beautiful California beach, it's worth stay.

The amenities are expected: lots of tropical looking trees, a gym, business center, restaurant, and a pool shaped like a gigantic puddle (you know, all squiggly and such). When I checked in, man at front desk gave me some freshly baked, and again oversized, cookies — five of them. Of course I couldn't eat all of them at once, so I saved a few for breakfast.

After being in my room for about an hour, a delectable assortment of gourmet cheese was delivered to my door. After trying each one, I thought about heading down to gym. It always appeared to be empty and clean, but sitting in my room doing absolutely nothing seemed like a much better idea, especially after all those cookies (I wouldn't want to lose them). This gym has approximately ten polished chrome weight and cardio machines that practically beg for me to put my fingerprints all over them. Luckily, right out side front entrance is an easy escape route to pool where you can erase evidence.

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Getting to island of St. Kitts late at night is something out of a 1940s film noir.

Connecting to last flight to island from San Juan, Puerto Rico, was a puzzle. When you get to San Juan airport, no one is around, no gate agents or even lonely janitor swabbing floor. The flight coupon for St. Kitts said Gate A1, but first gate is B2. There seems to be no A1. I walk length of concourse. I finally find a flight attendant that informs me that Gate A1 is downstairs. You can't see it from Gate 2.

Escalatoring down to a sea of people, A gates are crowded with late night fliers, all flapping off to different Caribbean points. A short shuttle takes me to plane. Rain is splashing everywhere; quickly loaded, American Eagle Bombardier bounces down runway and into night, props grinding in wind.

The flight to St. Kitts' Golden Rock Airport is about an hour. Landing on jumbo jet approved runway seemed longer. There is no jet port; wind seems to whip carry-on out of my hand. Hang on to your hat. A short custom interlude and it is off to Jack Tar Resort. Everything around Basseterre, capital, is close at hand.

Get Your Dive Gear Here OnlineCaledonia charters from Great Britain and Signature Tour charters loaded with Canadians are primary budget flights to island, subsequently English language gets a brisk workout of crisp British and drawling Canadian accents, most notable after a few rounds at hotel bar. Signature Tours has an agent desk at many of local hotels. There are no direct flights to or from St. Kitts from United States, only through San Juan, where you go through U.S. customs on return.

The Frigate Bay area is one of most developed areas on St. Kitts, with an additional casino coming soon. Jack Tar Village, also known as Royal St. Kitts Casino, also known as Allegro Resort, sleeps astride salt ponds, away from beach — oldest resort on island. I had gambled at Jack Tar 12 years prior, arriving by Windjammer at Banana Bay on southern peninsula — again late at night.

There are only 3,000 rooms on St. Kitts, more are planned under a controlled growth plan by progressive government (as of 2005, about 5,000 rooms). White Hall, on north shore (Atlantic side), will eventually have hotels, housing, resorts, and convention services. Jack Tar is on more benign drier side of island. Walking through bush will ensnarl you in cacti; that is how dry it is on this side of island.

Driving is British style — on left. Often people park their cars along narrow roads west of Basseterre, making journey slow and painful, but leisurely; time to slow down, island time. The constant trade winds blowing down sole volcano cool any road rage.

"Wot - You're British?"

Even though St. Kitts is an independent nation and a former crown colony, attitudes are still a sort of British stiff upper lip with a Caribbean lilt. The locals are well educated, with a strong middle class, all with a hang loose attitude, and not arrogant like Bahamians. St. Kitts is a well-kept garden, clean and comfortable.

The currency is EC or Eastern Caribbean Dollar, with Queen of England embossed on notes. You can get one-dollar coins in round or octagonal coins. The exchange rate was about 2.6 EC to US$1 when I was there. The American dollar is accepted everywhere, as are credit cards in major establishments. Get a wad or two. The Royal St. Kitts Casino slots take only U.S. coins.