Learning to Surf With Corky CarrollRead Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com
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I'd like to say
sun flooded us with a warm glow that morning.
That we could barely make out
orangey rays peeking through
holes in
clouds. I'd like to say that my feet and skin welcomed
daybreak, but unfortunately this wasn't
case.
It was an August Monday morning, and as I nervously walked onto Bolsa Chica State Beach in Huntington Beach, California, I was greeted by a bitter chill and a slight drizzle. It was gray and cold. So cold, that I couldn't understand why anyone would want to get into an even chillier water in an attempt to surf. But surfing isn't about lazy warm afternoons or playing in
water. It's about style and technique. It's about love; something I would soon learn.
I have signed up for
group lesson, and I took cover under
tarp where I was welcomed by blonde haired, deeply tanned Rick Walker,
Corky Carroll Surf School Director. After introducing myself, I felt comforted by his raspy voice and amazing enthusiasm. For
next 45 minutes or so,
rest of
students and I listened to Rick's wisdom on
importance of safety, direction and technique in
water. One of
more interesting things I noticed during his enlightening and slightly comical routine was
fact that
majority of students were about 15 years younger than I and about half my size. Naturally I bonded with a few surfers more my age as we were lined up in order of height. Feeling more comfortable now, I was ready and willing to give my first attempt at surfing an embarrassing try.
We were separated in groups of about four or five, each with a different instructor. Smiling and a little out of breath, an instructor by
name of Brian showed up soaked from all ready surfing. After that came
pivotal moment that made me understand how anyone in their right mind could be out here surfing in these gloomy conditions, I was given a wet suit.
Corky Carroll's Surfing School provided us with wet suits, pre-waxed surfboards and professional instructors. Brian told me that some of
instructors here have been competing in international competitions for years. He, on
other hand, only gives surfing lessons during
summers. During
rest of
year he is an academic teacher.
"Sometimes I'm having so much fun out here that I forget I'm working," he said. I responded with a smile and a nod as he proceeded to get each of us
correct board. Soon came
dreaded moment of entering
water. My new buddies and I strutted our way down
beach to an open area where we could learn surfing basics safely. With echoes of
Baywatch theme song in
back of my head I entered
water.