Surf Divas The Girls Curl the Surf in California

Written by Lena Hunt Mabra


Surf Divas The Girls Curlrepparttar Surf in California

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If everybody had an ocean acrossrepparttar 137735 USA/ Then everybody'd be surfin' like California/ All over La Jolla at Wiamea Bay/ Everybody's gone surfin- Surfin' USA/

I pushed hard onrepparttar 137736 large button of my ghetto blaster as it clunkedrepparttar 137737 cassette tape on to my beach motif bed comforter. It wasrepparttar 137738 year 1983 and I was decked out inrepparttar 137739 hand-sewn, self-designed shirt and jams imprinted with palm trees and surfboards. Funny, now that I think about it but I had usedrepparttar 137740 same fabric forrepparttar 137741 bedding and my clothes. So it was hard to know where I began and whererepparttar 137742 bed ended. Wow! Was I tacky or what? Talented but tacky!

Being a natural born artist and dreamer, my creations expressed my deep longing to live anywhere, just anywhere inrepparttar 137743 world but Small Town, USA. Landlocked forever with not a wave of water in sight. As far fromrepparttar 137744 ocean as you could possibly get in a small, no, minute; scratch that, molecular town with a population of 800 and decreasing. Known for its chicken farms, chicken processing plants, andrepparttar 137745 prized dog food plant.

No, I'm not knocking my hometown; it's just that I had bigger aspirations. Reading books and writing in journals took me to faraway places with so many adventures but reality kept me landlocked. I wasn't happy with justrepparttar 137746 idea of graduating from high school, marrying a local boy, and raising children and chickens. I wanted so much more out of life.

Growing up in a small town and on a farm taught me many valuable skills and provided wonderful childhood memories and I wouldn't trade these forrepparttar 137747 world. But asrepparttar 137748 Beach Boys crooned out to Bar-bar-bar-bar-bar-Barbara Ann, I gazed up atrepparttar 137749 fake palm trees hanging overhead and dreamed once again of being a surfer girl inrepparttar 137750 California sun.

Now twenty-one years later, I'm totally stoked about heading out to southern California to catch a wave and soon I'll be sittin' on top ofrepparttar 137751 world, asrepparttar 137752 lyrics of another song go!

"Dude,repparttar 137753 water's soooo totally hot today!" Some bushy, bushy blonde hairdo-ed surfer tells me as if I were a local or something. It's 6:30 inrepparttar 137754 morning and he's already finished surfing. What? Do people just get up and hitrepparttar 137755 waves before they go to work? Do they even go to work?

Learning to Surf With Corky Carroll

Written by Josh Eelson


Learning to Surf With Corky Carroll

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I'd like to sayrepparttar sun flooded us with a warm glow that morning.

That we could barely make outrepparttar 137734 orangey rays peeking throughrepparttar 137735 holes inrepparttar 137736 clouds. I'd like to say that my feet and skin welcomedrepparttar 137737 daybreak, but unfortunately this wasn'trepparttar 137738 case.

It was an August Monday morning, and as I nervously walked onto Bolsa Chica State Beach in Huntington Beach, California, I was greeted by a bitter chill and a slight drizzle. It was gray and cold. So cold, that I couldn't understand why anyone would want to get into an even chillier water in an attempt to surf. But surfing isn't about lazy warm afternoons or playing inrepparttar 137739 water. It's about style and technique. It's about love; something I would soon learn.

I have signed up forrepparttar 137740 group lesson, and I took cover underrepparttar 137741 tarp where I was welcomed by blonde haired, deeply tanned Rick Walker,repparttar 137742 Corky Carroll Surf School Director. After introducing myself, I felt comforted by his raspy voice and amazing enthusiasm. Forrepparttar 137743 next 45 minutes or so,repparttar 137744 rest ofrepparttar 137745 students and I listened to Rick's wisdom onrepparttar 137746 importance of safety, direction and technique inrepparttar 137747 water. One ofrepparttar 137748 more interesting things I noticed during his enlightening and slightly comical routine wasrepparttar 137749 fact thatrepparttar 137750 majority of students were about 15 years younger than I and about half my size. Naturally I bonded with a few surfers more my age as we were lined up in order of height. Feeling more comfortable now, I was ready and willing to give my first attempt at surfing an embarrassing try.

We were separated in groups of about four or five, each with a different instructor. Smiling and a little out of breath, an instructor byrepparttar 137751 name of Brian showed up soaked from all ready surfing. After that camerepparttar 137752 pivotal moment that made me understand how anyone in their right mind could be out here surfing in these gloomy conditions, I was given a wet suit.

Corky Carroll's Surfing School provided us with wet suits, pre-waxed surfboards and professional instructors. Brian told me that some ofrepparttar 137753 instructors here have been competing in international competitions for years. He, onrepparttar 137754 other hand, only gives surfing lessons duringrepparttar 137755 summers. Duringrepparttar 137756 rest ofrepparttar 137757 year he is an academic teacher.

"Sometimes I'm having so much fun out here that I forget I'm working," he said. I responded with a smile and a nod as he proceeded to get each of usrepparttar 137758 correct board. Soon camerepparttar 137759 dreaded moment of enteringrepparttar 137760 water. My new buddies and I strutted our way downrepparttar 137761 beach to an open area where we could learn surfing basics safely. With echoes ofrepparttar 137762 Baywatch theme song inrepparttar 137763 back of my head I enteredrepparttar 137764 water.

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