Supplying Water to your Cabin with a Driven Well

Written by Jack Hudson

Perhapsrepparttar cheapest type of well to construct is a driven well. However, its use is limited to locations whererepparttar 100429 ground is free from layers of heavy rock. Such a well consists of a well point, drive pipe, and connecting couplings. The well point is a length of steel pipe that is perforated; it has a screen for strainingrepparttar 100430 water and a conical tip which is used to piercerepparttar 100431 soil. The tip should be at least 2 inches in diameter.

There are two different types of point. The regular point is used in sandy soils. The washer well point is used in gravel. This type has drilled and countersunk holes fitted with brass wire gauze. Drive pipe usually comes in 5-foot lengths. It should be galvanized so that it won't rust and should have externally threaded ends to receiverepparttar 100432 couplings as sections are added.

To start work on a well of this type, spade out a shallow hole inrepparttar 100433 ground. Next, you will want to make a drive assembly unit. This assembly consists of a nipple, coupling, and a malleable iron drive cap. Apply pipe joint compound torepparttar 100434 outer threads atrepparttar 100435 top ofrepparttar 100436 well point and screw onrepparttar 100437 drive assembly.

Tightenrepparttar 100438 whole business with a pipe wrench. You are now ready to start drivingrepparttar 100439 point intorepparttar 100440 earth. When you have drivenrepparttar 100441 first length about three-quarters of its length intorepparttar 100442 ground, removerepparttar 100443 drive cap and nipple. Leaverepparttar 100444 coupling attached so that you can add a length of pipe. Apply joint compound torepparttar 100445 threads again and connectrepparttar 100446 pipe length torepparttar 100447 well point.

How to choose the foundation for your log cabin

Written by Jack Hudson

How to chooserepparttar foundation for your log cabin

Full foundation sounds easier to build than a slab. The only catch is that you'll probably have to do a lot more digging. This is especially true if you live inrepparttar 100428 northern part of our country. A little north of New York City we usually extend our foundations down 4 feet. You'll want to find out how far downrepparttar 100429 wall and footings should go;repparttar 100430 local building inspector or mason can tell you.

With this information in mind, lay outrepparttar 100431 outlines ofrepparttar 100432 building as described above and start digging. The walls that form your foundation will probably be built of 8-inch concrete block. This wall should rest on a footing. The illustration atrepparttar 100433 side shows one way such a footing can be made.

Likerepparttar 100434 beam described above,repparttar 100435 dirt may be cut square and be used asrepparttar 100436 form. The footing should be at least 6 inches thick and project 2 or not more than 3 inches beyondrepparttar 100437 thickness ofrepparttar 100438 wall. This concrete footing is made of I part portland cement, 3 parts sand, 5 parts coarse aggregate, or a transit mix that will have a minimum compressive strength of 1,500 pounds per square inch in 28 days.

If you are makingrepparttar 100439 walls of block,repparttar 100440 mortar you should use is composed of I part portland cement, 3 parts sand by volume, and lime not exceeding 25 per cent ofrepparttar 100441 cement by volume. Staggerrepparttar 100442 blocks so thatrepparttar 100443 joints ofrepparttar 100444 second row of blocks fall overrepparttar 100445 mid-sections ofrepparttar 100446 blocks below. Use closed-end blocks for corners.

Moisteningrepparttar 100447 blocks before laying them will help holdrepparttar 100448 mortar. Pour concrete intorepparttar 100449 top row of blocks and insert 6-inch bolts, 8 feet on center, forrepparttar 100450 sill.

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