Too many people have idea that being paid to take photographs of exotic places is ideal job. It may take years of effort to be paid by magazines such as National Geographic, but are there better ways to become a travel photographer. As most people have more leisure time, more holiday time, and more disposable income, demand for travel photographs has increased dramatically. Not only are they in demand for travel brochures, but they're also used extensively in other advertising copy.
Images necessary for sale and publication require rather more skill than those applied to standard holiday snaps. "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes." Was a quote by French novelist Marcel Proust, and it appears to be of particular use to travel photographer.
Investigate possibilities of becoming a contracted photographer at Lonely Planet Images. Lonely Planet Images is a digital library of travel photography. They have submission guidelines available for download at their website. They are a subsidiary of what used to known as Lonely Planet Guide, and currently have 400 photographers on contract. You can also increase your chances of breaking into very lucrative travel market, by entering competitions such as Travel photographer of Year . There closing date for submissions is September 5th 2005.
A camera is merely a box, that captures light, and in a studio, it is very easy to manipulate light. The reality of location photography is that it is generally expensive; you have expenses of air tickets, hotels and meals on top of normal expenses. At end of day you are at mercy of “weather”, no one wants to see their ideal location subject to rain clouds.
When we talk of light in terms of travel photography we are talking about intensity, as most travel shots are taken outdoors, In general there is harsh direct sunlight and diffused soft light. Harsh light is when sun is directional, and it is great for capturing deep contrasts between light and shadows. With this type of shot, it is difficult to judge exposure. If you direct your exposure towards light, that will leave your shadows without any depth or definition. Conversely if you use correct exposure for shadow, then light areas will be without detail, giving a vaguely sinister result to image. Unfortunately your drawback here is film, human eye is capable of registering contrast to a ratio of 800:1, slide film is capable of only 30:1, which is slightly improved, by going digital at a ratio of 40:1. Professional photographs have all passionate views on their favourite brand name of film in this situation, but they are all in accord that you need a slower speed films, as they record better contrast and grain. ISO/ASA rating of a hundred is about fastest film to use. It is important that you use a good photovoltaic cell (either a separate light meter or one inbuilt into camera). Once light meter has registered light, camera is capable of indicating aperture opening required, and shutter speed. The speed of film is also taken into this equation. You need to measure darkest and lightest areas.