When thinking about a collar for your Civil War shirt, as I always say...look at original photographs. The collar/shirt combinations that you can use are endless.

Original photographs show shirts with collars that are different colors from shirts or same color as shirt. I have seen and used high collars, low collars, rounded-edged collars and square-edged collars.

Some shirts had button on collars, and many shirts were collarless. ECHOES: ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE CONFEDERACY shows seven shirts on pgs. 154-155, and each one has a different collar.

Pvt. John Burgwyn MacRae Starr's North Carolina is a dark blue wool collarless pullover shirt while one below, Pvt. Andrew Thomas Beam, 28th South Carolina Volunteers' shirt is white cotton with a square edged collar made of same color and material.

An imported shirt from England with only a slit in front and a button to hold two sides together appears on same page. There does not appear to be a placket or a collar anywhere to be seen on this British shirt. Bri. Gen.David A. Weisiger's shirt is a pullover shirt made of a butternut color type material, which is also collarless.

by Paula and Coach McCoach http://www.civilwaruniforms.net

Your own shirt designed and made by you for your own Civil War Uniform Impression is easy and economical. Follow these simple directions, and your Civil War uniform shirt will be exactly how you want it.

Take all of your girth measurements.

Using a tape measure, measure your chest, stomach and note bigger of two measurements. Write it all down in inches. Do not suck your stomach or chest in. Be sure you are in a comfortable position, so your shirt will fit properly.

Next, measure from top of shoulder to mid-thigh, so you can tell how long you want shirt to be. Next, measure then from shoulder tip to wrist with arm bent at a 90 degree angle, so sleeve will have enough room in it for you to move freely and comfortably.

Measure your bicep and wrist.

Measure your neck.

Start looking for material but don't buy anything until measurements are completed

Look at original photographs and decide which type of shirt you like and would be comfortable wearing on march. Look at collars and variations on how neck is done. The collar is an easy part of shirt to change also. A standard placard front with a slit for head is desirable and very accurate.

Check original photos in ECHOES OF GLORY: ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE CONFEDERACY pgs.79, 93, 147, especially 154-5 for patterns, styles, colors, buttons.

Purchase a shirt pattern. Follow assembly procedures.

Now you are ready to choose your material. 100% cotton or Osnaburg is recommended. In my experience a medium to heavy weight cotton works best. The polished cotton does not absorb sweat as well and is not as high quality. Homespun (good quality cotton) is a looser weave and more comfortable on march. If you are going to spend time and money on your Civil War Uniform shirt, make it a quality one that will be comfortable for you and last for many seasons.

Muted colors are more of what was worn during Civil War. If I were going to do a shirt just starting out, I would go with a red, white and/or blue homespun. I would stay away from real bright colors. Use muted-color fabrics. I think it looks much more accurate that way. The reason I said red, white, and blue is that both armies were patriotic and those color combinations were popular in Civil War Era.

Hand topstitch around pocket and neck. Your hand topstitching should be about 6 - 8 stitches per inch. If you do this hand stitching, you have just doubled value of your shirt and jacket.