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Every year in an Outside Magazine readers' poll, Rockland, Maine ranks among
top 100 best small towns to live in. This is
town where
then controversial 1957 Lana Turner soap opera flick, Peyton Place, was filmed — back when
most dangerous thing in a small town was . . . gossip! The producers wanted to give small, hometown America a risqué shock that today is a comical celluloid version of homespun Americana, a mild comparison to what is on
Internet today.
Maine joins only one other state in
lower 48,
only state to do so. It is
only state with a single syllable. Life in Maine is a simple life, not many complexities. Rockland has not changed much since
'50s. I guess that is why
PP producers chose it for their mighty cult genre.
I was sitting in a local café one fine summer day, gazing upon
black and white photos on
wall of a bygone era of
historic Main Street. There used to be an electric trolley line down
main drag, and
gossip is they are bringing it back. I can see Peyton Place in
frozen-in-time snapshots. Rockland is still a great place to live. Main Street is now on
National Register of Historic Places, with most of
old brick buildings housing ice cream shops, bookstores, cafés and bars, museums and art galleries. Rockland is a wonderful place to visit in
summer — just for all those farm fresh flavors of ice cream!
But beneath
surface,
community has a lot going for it. MBNA moved into town and is
main employer,
largest privately owned credit card issuer is
U.S., with their corporate restored stark white Greek Revivalist-style headquarters near
water, giving it a campus-like feel. It is fun to walk around Rockland, to view
old mansions and buildings; duck into a canoe and dory building shop to see dense, white Maine cedar turned into a recreational work of art.
One place not to be missed is
Farnsworth Art Museum, rather museums. Farnsworth is a respected name in Rockland, and you will find a three-story art gallery museum in
old bank building on Main Street, and then a few blocks to
back is
magnificent Pirate Museum (entrance $7).
The Pirate Museum is a vast collection of dramatic seafaring oil paintings, mostly create by
notable Wyeths (The museum is known as
Wyeth Center.), a three generational collection of their canvases that portrays
days of yore and lore on
high seas. Rockland still maintains its links to windjammers and packet boats. Many summertime windjammers load up a cargo of tourists for cruises through
Penobscot Bay islands. Later in
day I watched ferry boats load trucks and cars for
largest island, Vinalhaven, where in
past much of
famous Maine granite was quarried.
The regional airport is located just outside Rockland at
Knox County Airport;
terminal is a throw back to simpler times. I think they still shoo cows off
runway, but
security problems of
world have hit home — four TSA agents checked my bags on
flight out — I was
only passenger on
plane, so they had plenty of time to unzip everything. On my flight to Maine I met returning residents bound for some of
coastal islands. The main Maine airline into
terminal is Colgan, a rubber-band express service of USAir, with connecting flights primarily to Boston. The local bus terminal is located at
Ferry terminal, which is probably really
main hub of
town because a marina is located close by.
The Rockland ferry terminal is across Main Street from
best place to stay in town —
historic Old Granite Inn, a Colonial Federalist architectural sculpture hewn from tons of St. George, Maine artisan-dressed granite.
John,
innkeeper, originally from California, greeted me and showed me around
modest inn, and then took me to my room, an airy corner alcove on
second floor (room #6) with windows all around for great views of
bay.