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Each spring, I've celebrated a sort of personal Independence Day when I toss camping gear in car and head west for Olympic National Park Coast; flying solo. I pitch tent, rain or shine, in park, prepare myself some fine campsite cooking, and enjoy being on my own in tall trees of forest. Ever since my move to Washington State, I've had a great fondness for Olympic National Park.

One time, I woke up at break of day and hiked up Hoh River Trail to first campsite, 8 miles, flying up trail at a pace that only a solo hiker can maintain. I came around a bend and walked right in to a herd of Roosevelt Elk. They paused, looked at me, and strolled up slope, turning their backs to me as I stood dead still, waiting for my heart rate to drop. They're big animals.

Later that morning, two women came around a bend, brandishing their walking sticks at me. "We thought you were a cougar!" they said. I had no idea that I was in cougar country, having headed up trail well before ranger station had opened that morning.

Every time I've been to Olympic Peninsula since, rewards of heading out into questionable weather with open eyes and, of course, a good raincoat, have far exceeded costs. On another trip I spent a stormy night camped in woods and as a reward, took myself up to Quinault Lodge for a deluxe breakfast. This time I opted to skip tent and to add a little companionship. The husband and I booked two nights at Quinault Lodge.

The lodge sits just above Lake Quinault, flanked by an expansive stretch of green lawn and an inviting deck that faces west in towards setting sun. There are plenty of comfortable chairs and it's a great place to read your book - on dry days, of course. If weather has gone all Pacific Northwest on you, there will be a fire in fireplace and overstuffed armchairs to welcome you.

The rooms are welcoming too, very comfortable, with country-style furnishings and private baths; some have fireplaces. (If you stay at main lodge, be sure to ask for a room-with-a-view of lake. They cost a bit more, but it's worth it for spectacular view. Our room was over service entrance to kitchen, and a little noisy between staff and heavy-duty fans.) Make sure you set aside at least evening for a meal at restaurant. Fresh local seafood is a specialty, but other options, which include at least one vegetarian dish, are terrific too. There's also a lovely private label wine, though if you're feeling particular and don't want to risk it, you'll get a chance to try it out during lodge-hosted afternoon wine tasting.

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Be forewarned. When you drive up to luxurious Matakauri Lodge south of Queenstown, New Zealand, drive a car with a low-roof. Why? Because Matakauri is so private and exclusive, that you have to drive through forest to get to their front door. In moments, you'll forget Aspen-like busy-ness of Queenstown (Aspen and Queenstown are sister cities) and arrive in a peaceful oasis. The Lodge is set on nine acres of native bush, partially landscaped with rolling lawns, a meandering stream and surrounded by a pine forest, overlooking spectacular Lake Wakatipu, creating an atmosphere of supreme privacy and enjoyment.

Don't look for a big sign or reception area. There isn't one. When we drove up, we thought we might have accidentally stumbled into someone's private compound — and that's exactly what folks at Matakauri want you to feel like. We tip-toed through front door, only to be greeted by our host, a delightful German woman, named Wiebke (VEEB-keh). She offered us a drink (Bob had a single-malt Scotch; I sipped a local Zinfandel), and showed us around lodge.

The Matakauri Lodge is just four years old (2000), and was built with a main house for family who lived there, and four cottages, each with two suites that are a few yards and miles of privacy away. General manager Tomas Kastberg told us that while other lodges in area are more formal, with white gloved butlers and such, Matakauri was designed to reflect New Zealander lifestyle — more relaxed, simple and elegant. Think of a simple but very elegant Zen Buddhist structure, add Kiwis' zesty love for outdoors, and you begin to get picture.

Our suite in one of cottages could have been a large apartment in many metropolitan areas. The sitting room was built from local stone and wood, elegantly decorated with furniture of simple lines and sumptuous fabrics and garnished with a gas-started wood-burning stove. A minibar was stocked with teas, coffees, cookies, and other goodies, all included in price of room (except for alcohol, which was extra). Commanding entire room was stunning view of Lake Wakatipu, with 270 degree views. Across lake, mountains fill your eyes with stunning beauty, and not one iota of human presence. Having come from San Francisco Bay Area, it was ocular refreshment.