I start my seeds indoors approximately 5-6 weeks before last expected frost date. I use a commercially available starting flat that will hold 72 seedlings. I prefer plant Tomato Park's Whopper™ Cr Improved, VFFNT Hybrid which can be ordered from Park Seed Co. . This is a large, luscious, disease resistant tomato that I have seen grow to excess of 3lbs.+. It makes for an awesome BLT since a slice of one of these beauties will hang off toast at least one inch or more all way around!!!!!

For potting mixture, I use equal parts of a good quality potting soil and vermiculite that makes soil light enough so that seeds will not have difficulty sprouting and growing. I know your probably saying to yourself right now, WOW, 72 tomato plants, I don’t need that many, well look at it like this…out of 72 that you start, some will not develop for whatever reason, and once they are planted, some will die, birds will get some, animals will get some and yes, bugs will get some regardless of how hard your try to keep them out. So out of that 72 plants, you could wind up with just right number in end for your garden. Of course it is possible to wind up with 72 very healthy, untouched by animals, disease or bugs, tomato plants, as happened to me one season, then you will have more tomatoes than you can possibly eat, can, sell or give away!!!! But that is a whole 'nother story!!!

I have grown tomatoes in all types of soil, from rocky, hard packed clay to rich dark loam so loose you could push your arm elbow deep into soil with no effort. It has been my experience that almost any soil will work with most only requiring minor amendments.

If you need to add amendments to your soil to loosen it, I recommend a mixture of aged sawdust and sand in equal parts. The sand can be obtained in bulk from your local concrete company for a small fee or you can buy it in bags from your local hardware store. One note about sawdust, DO NOT use fresh sawdust, as this is much to hot due to nitrogen being released during breakdown process. Plants placed in this sawdust; even with mix of sand and soil are much to tender to withstand high concentration of nitrogen.

If fresh sawdust is all that you can obtain, pile it in one corner of your garden and let it age for new season.

Your local sawmill, if you have one close by, should have a good supply of old sawdust on hand that they will let you load up and haul away for free. If you do not have a sawmill or any type of manufacturing facility close by, such as Ames Co., that makes wooden handles etc. you can check with your local county extension agent and he or she can tell you where you may acquire sawdust. Speaking of county extension agent, when you go to consult with agent, take along some soil samples from different places in your garden and ask that they be tested for proper nutrients. This is a free service provided by some counties while others may charge a nominal fee, regardless, you can have results back in just a few days.

Once you have sawdust and sand, spread equal parts over your garden until it reaches a depth of about one inch or more depending on type of soil. Too much and soil will be too loose and water will drain away to quickly, not enough and sun will bake it to a hardpan during dog days of summer.

Work this mixture into your soil as deep as possible using your rotary tiller or old fashioned way, by using a spading fork or shovel Once this mixture is worked in properly then it is time to consider what type of fertilizer is needed.