Old-Fashioned Tomatoes

Written by Janette Blackwell

Raw vegetables are dangerous and must be thoroughly fried, steamed, and boiled into submission. So thought our ancestors. The original sin of a recalcitrant vegetable was of course lessened by heat, butrepparttar conscientious nineteenth-century cook continued to boil it long after it had sogged into a jelly-like mass, just in case some evil remained.

Inrepparttar 148904 nineteenth century an hour’s cooking barely sufficed for cabbage and for corn onrepparttar 148905 cob. They did not fix broccoli at all, and I can understand why. I have tried to imagine broccoli after an hour of cooking, butrepparttar 148906 mind rares back and refuses even to approachrepparttar 148907 sheer horror.

Which reminds me of an event inrepparttar 148908 summer of 1956, when my classmate Patsy Sutherland and I lived with Grandpa Hess while we went to business college in Missoula, Montana. Grandpa was a crusty old widower, set in his own way of housekeeping, but he tried to be gracious. In midsummer he bought a whole crate of tomatoes. Luscious, red, ripe tomatoes. They sat inrepparttar 148909 cellarway for two days, and each time Patsy and I passed them our mouths watered. Each evening we thought he’d invite us to have a tomato or two, but he didn’t. When we arrived home onrepparttar 148910 third evening, he said, “Girls! I fixedrepparttar 148911 tomatoes today. Help yourselves!”

He had stewed every last one of them.

Some of those old tomato recipes are good, though. The originator of Tomatoes Maryland probably had an old-fashioned wood stove that could gently simmer something all afternoon on a back burner or inrepparttar 148912 oven. Which means this was most likely a fall or winter dish rather than a summer one, as people letrepparttar 148913 cookstove fire go out on summer afternoons.

The Best of the Boutiques

Written by Marcy Roth

Here atrepparttar gateway torepparttar 148903 California wine country, choices abound in wine. Many ofrepparttar 148904 best never make it out ofrepparttar 148905 Golden state (unless we ship them there.) And, many ofrepparttar 148906 finest are small-scale, low-production wineries – often called boutique or “garagistes”, referring to vintners who make their wines in small quarters such as garages, rather than lavish châteaus.

Norman Kiken, winemaker at Reverie, high atop Napa’s Diamond Mountain, puts it this way, “It’s about controlling your own destiny – good, permanent people who know every vine in our vineyard – they almost treat each one as an individual. I think that leads to higher quality fruit, which of course, leads to higher quality wine.” http://www.bacchusandvenus.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cgi?action=specs&&item=1106264732&choice=Cabernet%20Sauvignons%20&%20Bordeaux%20Varietals/Bordeaux%20Blend

“The downside is an incredible inefficiency inrepparttar 148907 use of equipment. For example, we userepparttar 148908 same expensive equipment as Mondavi, but we’re only using them 100 hours per year, whereas they are using them 7 hours per day.”

A tiny new label may have major start-up costs, while a big player seesrepparttar 148909 cost-per-bottle go down as production goes up. There are tremendous economies of scale for a brand that sells millions of cases of wine versus brand ofrepparttar 148910 same quality fromrepparttar 148911 same region.

Grapes, includingrepparttar 148912 labor involved in growing and harvesting them, are usually a winery's biggest single cost—up to 60 percent ofrepparttar 148913 production expenses. Winemaker David Ramey adds, "With our Chardonnay, we do all whole-cluster pressing, as opposed to using a destemmer-crusher. You get half as much material inrepparttar 148914 press, and it takes twice as long, sorepparttar 148915 labor is twice as high. But we think it adds torepparttar 148916 quality." Ramey and his wife Carla founded Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996 after nearly two decades of creating benchmark wines for such California wineries as Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus and Rudd. “Owning one’s own winery isrepparttar 148917 dream of every winemaker.” http://www.bacchusandvenus.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cgi?choice=Cabernet%20Sauvignons%20%26%20Bordeaux%20Varietals/Claret

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