Wine Around The Bend – Burgundy Barge Bliss Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/cruise02/barge/france/epoque/burgundy.html
Reflected sunlight from water outside dances on chestnut ceiling of my cabin first morning I awaken aboard luxury barge La Belle Époque. I get up to look out open porthole window and am greeted with a friendly squawk. A large white swan approaches expectantly, followed by several mallard ducks. We are eye level with each other. Having no bread to offer, I quickly close window.
After a shower in tiled bathroom and rub-down with a thick nautical blue towel, I head upstairs. On an antique oak sideboard in main salon hostesses Fanny and Barbara have laid out a breakfast of granolas, yogurt, and fresh fruit. While I was still gazing at ceiling of my cabin, Captain Lee had been in village of Auxerre buying fresh baguettes, croissants and pain chocolate.
La Belle Époque is one of several luxury canal barges operated in France by European Waterways. Once a working canal barge, it has been redesigned with both elegance and passenger comfort in mind. The salon is hunter green, rose and mahogany, with comfortable banquettes and vases of fresh flowers. There are a sun-deck, Jacuzzi spa, sauna, fitness studio, and bicycles for guests to ride along canal paths.
It's a fine fall day in France, still summer in afternoons, with nights that offer a crisp reminder of winter to come. This state-of-the-art hotel barge carries just twelve passengers, with six crew members to take care of every possible passenger need.
Nick, our guide, had picked us up in Paris previous day in front of Hotel Ampère. A two-hour journey by minivan through rolling French countryside had brought us to medieval town of Auxerre, where La Belle Époque and her crew awaited. We enjoyed a champagne welcome accompanied by freshly-baked popovers. After meeting crew and getting settled into our cabins, we explored cobblestone streets and fashionable shops of Auxerre.
At junction of Canal du Nivernais and River Yonne, Auxerre was a pivotal town on ancient north-south road through France. It was a big market town for lumber and wine as well as an important spiritual center. Surrounded by timber-framed buildings are a 15th century tower with a large decorative 17th century clock.
Our first dinner aboard La Belle Époque introduced talents of chef Guy. "Scallops Mating with Snails", followed by a charolet filet with red pepper purée and potatoes gratinée au dauphin. Dessert was shortbread with raspberry coulis. A white St. Veran and a red Aloce Coton (wines of Burgundy area) accompanied meal, and we discovered there is no limit to number of bottles we may consume.