Indiana Jones and
VolcanoExperiencing a live volcano was on top of our agenda when my friend Rob and I visited
exotic land of Costa Rica. The plane touched down in
capital city of San Jose, and we headed for
car rental to pick up a 4x4 and a map to Mt. Arenal,
nearest active volcano.
After an arduous drive through torrential rain, we finally arrived in a quiet village supposedly at
foot of a fire-belching monster. I say supposedly because it was so foggy, we weren’t even sure a volcano existed. We couldn’t see a tree a block away, let alone a volcanic mountain looming 5,000 feet above us.
Locals claim if you really listen closely, you can hear
beast rumble. We never heard a whimper. By
second misty day and night of no sighting, I suspected
local population had fabricated
story of an erupting volcano in order to attract tourist dollars. A volcano of convenience. No muss, no fuss. Just some imaginary rumbling every so often that only
locals hear from a volcano no one ever sees because of
rain and fog!
Waiting out
rain, we were eating a tasty native dinner of red beans and rice at a colorful local dive when
owner of
café strolled over to our table. Without invitation, he plopped himself down. Miguel appeared to me exactly as I’ve always imagined don Juan of Carlos Castaneda fame to look. His face was dark and swarthy with a kind but inscrutable expression. Staring straight into our eyes, he declared in halting English, “You want to know volcano, not just look at it.”
Being a veteran traveler, I have learned to be agreeable in a foreign country and, in general, say “yes” to practically everything spoken to me by
locals. Not realizing
full import of
distinction between
words Miguel had used, I responded amicably, “Yeah, yeah, of course, we’d like to know
volcano.”
Without another word, Miguel turned over my paper place mat and began to draw a crooked line. We watched in silence as he guided
pencil over
grease-stained paper in absorbed concentration. What emerged was a detailed map of twists and turns with landmarks indicated by little, kid-like pictures of trees, stone walls and tiny shacks to represent a village.
Finished, Miguel sighed and spoke directly into our souls with piercing, green eyes. “This map take you to volcano. To be with volcano—to feel and know spirit of volcano.” Then he laughed softly and cautioned us we would be scared because
volcano would definitely erupt when we were there. “But volcano not harm you,” he added hastily. With a wistful look in his face, Miguel shared how he has picnicked at
edge of
volcano his whole life and
towering inferno had never harmed him. His words only mildly consoled me.
The sound of
cold, drenching rain woke us at dawn. We still couldn’t see or hear
volcano. Since
downpour discouraged us from any tourist activity, we decided we may as well get soaking wet following Miguel’s map to wherever it led.
We drove up
steep mountainside until
rugged jeep road ended abruptly at a craggy cliff. I was very surprised Miguel’s hand-drawn map actually corresponded to what we found on our journey. We followed our friend’s makeshift chart through a hole in a fence, up a circuitous rocky path, over many collapsed lava rock walls and past long-deserted fruit orchards. The trail ended at an imposing 300-foot wall of solid volcanic lava flow so jagged and sharp we couldn’t climb it.
Fortunately for us, Miguel had anticipated this challenge. At
edge of
lava flow, his map showed a naturally camouflaged trail through
dense rainforest. We plunged into
dark primeval forest. The jungle growth was so thick with vines and roots,
path so muddy and slippery, I felt we’d dropped into a comic scene right out of
Harrison Ford movie “Indiana Jones and
Raiders of
Lost Ark.” During one hilarious moment, Rob and I both lost our footing and, clutching each other, slid back down fifty feet of
mudslide trail. Grabbing overhanging vines, Tarzan-style, saved
day—and our necks! Our guardian angels must get a lot of overtime pay!
Undaunted and filled with
rush of adventure, Rob and I helped each other stand up, pull ourselves together and restart
climb. Clawing and scratching our way through
rainforest, we finally reached
top of
lava flow. My first impression was how very windy and cold it was up there for a tropical climate. The pouring rain and dense fog had persisted, obliterating
view of anything more than a foot in front of us. As we inched our way along
top of
volcanic rock, I remembered how Miguel had told us of his many idyllic picnics here with his friends. Not very conducive weather for a picnic on this morning!
Suddenly, a booming roar filled
air, followed by a very powerful rumble that reverberated throughout our bodies. We felt
Earth roll in one undulating wave after another! Even though Rob and I had never experienced an eruption before, we instinctively knew this was
volcano showing its might. The ground continued to heave in unnerving spasms. People-size boulders sped past us down
slope. Flying rocks were propelled into nearby trees,
sheer force imbedding
projectiles cleanly into their trunks. We heard and felt nearby avalanches crashing their way down
mountain. We could only see a fraction of
devastation because of
blinding downpour, but our bodies definitely registered
massive rearrangement all around us.
A sharp electric terror shot through every cell of my body. Its message was explicit and commanding, “Leave! Now! You must go now to save your life.”
I shouted to Rob, “We’re out of here! It’s not safe!” To my astonishment, he shook his head from side to side indicating he didn’t want to go.
“I’m staying. This is too cool!” he yelled over
roar of
wind and falling rock. He was nineteen years old. His sense of novelty and exploration was still stronger than his sense of danger and good judgment. I started to argue. I made zero impression on
brash, young daredevil.
Then another explosion rocked our world. I watched in horror as
heat, ash and force of
blast denuded a huge 200-foot tree in one second, stripping off all its leaves and limbs. If this volcano could do that to a tree, it could do
same to us! I knew with certainty I was supposed to leave posthaste.
Jumping off
top of
lava mound right into
rainforest, I bolted without another thought. I threw myself into
“Raiders of
Lost Ark” express mudslide, riding
flowing water and sludge through
dense jungle growth down
side of
still-quaking mountainside. In what seemed like only a few seconds, I arrived at
bottom of
lava flow. The path was certainly faster and easier going down than climbing up! For a brief moment, I lay soaked to
bone, resting in a mud puddle, my ripped clothes covered with brown muck.
Recovering some of my composure, I became aware for
first time of heat radiating from
lava flow smoldering several feet to my left. I crawled in
direction of
flow until I was within a few inches of
mass. To my surprise,
air felt like I had just opened a 400-degree oven. The surface was so hot, I instinctively jumped back a few feet. When we first arrived earlier in
morning,
extremely cold wind and pelting rain had so neutralized
radiant heat from
lava, we didn’t even notice
temperature.