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| | Journeys through Asturias, greenest Spain Written by John Michael
“The Road Goes Ever On and On…Down to Door Where It Began”. So wrote J.R.R. Tolkien, creator of “The Lord Of Rings”. My family lives in Middle-Earth; around here it’s called Asturias. Surrounded by green mountains and rolling hills, landscape bears strong resemblance to descriptions found in Tolkien’s works. Located on north coast of Spain, Asturias is known for being fresh, temperate and green. Very green. Spaniards call it “Paraiso Natural”, a ‘Natural Paradise’. Wandering around countryside here, I half expect to see elves, trolls, and halflings- and I must say some folk around here do indeed resemble hobbits, or characters out of a children’s story. Very quaint and picturesque. As I go walking around this land, thought of roads and ways ‘going ever on’ becomes reality. Every village is connected to surrounding fields and woods by a network of linking cowpaths, which ultimately reach next set of paths, and so on. Tolkien was right, all roads are one, like a river with many branches. That’s what I love most about walking (or running or biking or horseback or however you choose); every time is different, because after 4 years of exploring here I still find new ways, paths I have yet to tread, or new connections with old ones. This is real magic. The environment here is similar to that of lower Britain, to Atlantic France. But much softer in climate, warmer and sunnier (at times). The coastal north of Spain is separated from rest of peninsula by a chain of mountains, Cantabric mountain range. This blocks out southern heat, and forms a southern border to great Maritime Arc of North-West Europe. This is about as far south one can go and still be in Northern Europe, geographically. Culturally is another story, because many different people have come through this land at one time or another. The Celtic influence is strong; bagpipes and wooden shoes are commonplace. So are castanyets (Arabic finger cymbals), Gypsy sounds from Andalucia (South Spain), and olive oil from Mediterranean. Asturias is certainly part of Spain, only it lies up north, beyond a barrier of high mountains (the tallest peak is third-highest in Europe) that have historically blocked out much of rest of country. The mountains are hard to get over, but these days tunnels drilled through work well, what with freeway and all…a high speed train line is due at some point in future, so for now we must content ourselves with standard Eurorail. There is an international airport as well. By car it’s 4 hours to Madrid, and about 3 hours to border with France. Asturias is an average 50 miles (90 km) wide, and a debatable 150 miles long (depending how you mark it). Given climate, this is too far north for much wine-making, but apple trees grow in abundance, so alcoholic cider is local drink. And it is renowned throughout Spain, now gaining popularity abroad as well. The cider is thin and vinegary, best for clearing digestion, although there is also a sweet version, without alcohol. I like it after a nice run through hills, which brings us back to paths. When one goes out ‘trekking’ it will soon be noticed that there are many many trees, including apple. Chestnut, oak, sycamore, ash, beech, walnut, hazel, firs, and eucalyptus…which is an import that took root in last century. There are also some palms, especially closer to coast (another import of course). In orchards or standing alone there are cherry, pear, apple, plum, fig, peach, besides a multitude of berry bushes- blackberry, currant, raspberry, european blueberry. A favorite pastime when out and about is stopping to enjoy some of nature’s gifts, a welcome refreshment on a long hike. It bears repeating that although this is a Northern clime, Asturias is far enough south to support a variety of flora; in addition to trees named above there are oranges and lemons that do quite well, as long as they are in a good spot, and kiwis (must have come with eucalyptus). As with real estate, everything is ‘location, location’. A protected hill-side facing south is perfect for flora that need heat. Which is also a good spot for tomatoes, peppers, or melons. There many gardens here, both floral and vegetable. Sometimes they pop up in surprising places, far from any house, along side some path with stone walls and thick hedges. Rows of corn, with beans climbing stalks; potatoes and varied greens; different vegetables and herbs; produce and plenty in season. A careful eye will spot wild herbs when moving about land: mint, thyme, marjoram, rosemary…some of these have been planted, and grown wild, others happen on their own. Watch out for stinging nettles, but at least there is no poison ivy!
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