Feeding Bettas

Written by William Berg


Feeding Bettas

Knowingrepparttar right way to feed your betta is fundamental, because not doing it right can have big consequences on your bettas health. Nothing is more stressful than dealing with a sick fish, right? So, let's do it right, and get rid fromrepparttar 125608 calamity!

Here are some golden rules on feeding your betta.

First, selectrepparttar 125609 proper food. Bettas are selective eaters. A betta specific pellet is ok, but live and frozen foods are preferable. The recommended diet includes frozen brine shrimp and frozen bloodworms.

The next rule is to not overfeed your Bettas. Carefully doserepparttar 125610 meals, because even ifrepparttar 125611 fish ate all you give him, he will produce so much more waist when overfed andrepparttar 125612 pollution level ofrepparttar 125613 jar he is in will go beyond safe range, this problem is smaller if you keep your betta in a larger aquarium. Remember not to leave uneaten food inrepparttar 125614 Aquarium! Once your betta and rest ofrepparttar 125615 fish is done eating, you must remove all uneaten left over food. If you do not remove it, it will punctually rot and cause havoc inrepparttar 125616 tank.

Bettas prefer to eat fromrepparttar 125617 upper parts ofrepparttar 125618 water column. They don’t really enjoy eating fromrepparttar 125619 bottom ofrepparttar 125620 tank. So before droppingrepparttar 125621 food inrepparttar 125622 tank, make sure you have his attention. Let him seerepparttar 125623 food, get it close to his face fromrepparttar 125624 outside ofrepparttar 125625 aquarium, let him check out what it is, and then there you go! Drop food in front of his nose. The best way is to drop a tiny bit of food--about 6 frozen brine shrimp, watchrepparttar 125626 bettas eat it all and then look atrepparttar 125627 belly, if it looksrepparttar 125628 same as it did before you fed, it’s ok to give them more, but always watch and make sure to makerepparttar 125629 second portion smaller thanrepparttar 125630 first.

Breeding Gouramis

Written by William Berg


Gouramis are a quite popular chocies among fish hobbyists. For novice fish breeders, breeding gouramis can be an appealing challenge. Getting them to spawn and raisingrepparttar fry can be a rewarding experience.

Gouramis are labyrinth fishes. They have labyrinth, which is an air-filled breathing hole, located underrepparttar 125607 gill covers. This kind of fish can often be seen going torepparttar 125608 surface ofrepparttar 125609 water to take in fresh air, making them survive waters with low oxygen levels. There are many different types of gouramis, which all originally came from South and Southeast Asia. Most species are easy to breed, however a few species like Helostoma temmincki (the Kissing Gourami), Osphromenus goramy (the Giant Gourami), Sphaerichthys osphromenoides (the Chocolate Gourami) are rather difficult. Some ofrepparttar 125610 favmost popular species includerepparttar 125611 Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri),repparttar 125612 Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia) andrepparttar 125613 Honey Gourami (Colisa sota). And these arerepparttar 125614 species I am going to say a few words about breeding.

The pearl gourami is one ofrepparttar 125615 most beautiful of allrepparttar 125616 gouramis. The body and fins have lovely mosaic pearls that shine inrepparttar 125617 lights. The length for female can reach 10cm, 12cm for male. These gouramis love shallow, warm (around 27 C), and slowly flowing waters. They are very calm fish and easy to keep. They eat just about anything; however green flakes and Grindal worms are preferable. The breeding aquarium should be 80 cm in length or larger, with some suspended and anchored plants. The aquarium should be filled with about 15-20cm of water with no air or filtration, temperature 29C. Up to 2000 eggs can be laid in one spawning. Whenrepparttar 125618 fry become free swimmingrepparttar 125619 male should be removed fromrepparttar 125620 aquarium. The female should be removed right after spawning.

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