Fake Grass

Written by Brad Slade

The history of artificial or fake grass is to sayrepparttar least an interesting one and arose out ofrepparttar 113315 social desire to in-effect ward off what could be seen, as far back asrepparttar 113316 1950s, as an increasingly unhealthy tendency by youngsters not to exercise.

History has it that birth of synthetic grass began through attempts by scientists trying to develop a type of grass that would not only allow children and adolescents to play on regardless ofrepparttar 113317 weather condition but encouraged them to do so, in other words, a surface that they enjoyed using or a user friendly surface. Hencerepparttar 113318 advent of fake or artificial grass.

The result was one ofrepparttar 113319 early prototypes of what we now know to be fake or artificial grass. The earlier types were not only hard under foot and made for impracticality especially where sports and children were concerned givenrepparttar 113320 tendencies to fall but were very unpopular. Conversely, however, in terms of workability and endurance this surface proved itself worthy, withrepparttar 113321 originally playing field whererepparttar 113322 fake grass surface was installed lasting twenty years of solid wear.

Claims that in terms of practicalities due to poor drainage and its tendency to rot fake grass has limited applicability are unsubstantiated. Furthermore, highly contentious arguments revolving aroundrepparttar 113323 argument that artificial grass causes more on-field injuries when used in sports-grounds is again unfounded and may be derived from factions wanting to see this type of surfacing a thing ofrepparttar 113324 past. The claim byrepparttar 113325 industry is that if laid correctly no problems should occur. In fact, if anything, this type of surface should encourage better drainage enabling competitive sports to continue play with less interruption time due to rain.

Todayrepparttar 113326 advances in artificial grass surfaces are enormous and can’t be down-played. It is common practice to no longer use asphalt as an underlay beneathrepparttar 113327 surface ofrepparttar 113328 grass which has increasedrepparttar 113329 shock absorption provided byrepparttar 113330 grass, decreasedrepparttar 113331 retention of heat during summer and further improvingrepparttar 113332 drainage ability ofrepparttar 113333 grass. Finally and possibly most importantly no longer does fake grass look, both on and off T.V likerepparttar 113334 earlier versions of fake grass, that is, FAKE.

Typically artificial grass is approximately 3cm thick (from base to blade tip). The material ofrepparttar 113335 ‘blades’ themselves are a polyethylene-polypropylene blend which are then woven into a mat-like backing (much like that of carpet). The only maintenance that is recommended is thatrepparttar 113336 surface be given a once over each month, which involves rubbing it down. It you were to get this done professionally it is estimated that it would cost no more than a couple of thousand dollars a year. While this may initially sound a lot when compared torepparttar 113337 water costs alone forrepparttar 113338 real thing – there is virtually no comparison. For those still sceptical and missingrepparttar 113339 small things associated with ‘real’ grass consider this. In America, consumers missingrepparttar 113340 smell associated with cut grass can purchase, that is right, purchase a can whose contents promise that ‘just cut smell’!

Growing Tomatoes, etc. in Early Spring - "Poor Man's Hydroponics"

Written by Jim Kennard, President - Food For Everyone Foundation

Q. I've heard about so many ways to grow tomato and other tender plants early - from using Wall-O-Water's to takingrepparttar bottom out of wastebaskets, and they all seem to be a lot of work, with no guarantee of success. What do you suggest for someone who's serious about growingrepparttar 113314 high-value crops like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants?

A. If you are only growing a few plantsrepparttar 113315 methods you use may not be all that important. However, if you are wanting to grow a sizeable garden or maximize your production, you should pay careful attention torepparttar 113316 following procedures as taught byrepparttar 113317 Garden Doctor, Jacob Mittleider. Dr. Mittleider's methods have been extensively tested and proven highly effective in 30 countries aroundrepparttar 113318 world. If these instructions seem difficult or too much work, just consider that you are learning "The Poor Man's Hydroponic System" that will give you yields of tasty and healthy vegetables between 3 and 10 times what your neighbors get. Here is a summary ofrepparttar 113319 procedures:

1. Plant your tomato, pepper, or eggplant seeds 8 to 12 weeks beforerepparttar 113320 average last spring frost date - 8 weeks for 8-10" plants in 4" pots, and 12 weeks for 12-14" plants in gallon pots. Peppers and eggplant will take a little longer than tomatoes.

2. Prepare growing mix by combining 25-35% sand and 65-75% sawdust (or other clean material such as peat moss or perlite, etc.), and addingrepparttar 113321 Mittleider Pre-Plant Mix atrepparttar 113322 rate of 1 1/2 ounces per 18" X 18" X 2 3/4" seedling flat. You can make your own natural mineral nutrient mixes by looking inrepparttar 113323 Fertilizer pages ofrepparttar 113324 Learn section onrepparttar 113325 website at http://foodforeveryone.org/soil_bed_fertilizing/49/how-do-i-mix-the-pre-plant-formula.

3. Using plain water, thoroughly wetrepparttar 113326 mixed materials, let sit overnight, then plant about 100 seeds in each of 6 or 7 very shallow rows inrepparttar 113327 flat and sprinkle sand overrepparttar 113328 top, just sufficient to coverrepparttar 113329 seeds.

4. Place burlap overrepparttar 113330 flat, water gently so as not to moverepparttar 113331 seeds, and keeprepparttar 113332 soil moist, but not soaking wet in temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees fahrenheit. No light is needed, but cold temperatures will kill germinating seeds, so pay particular attention to maintaining temperatures in this range if possible.

5. As soon as sprouts emerge, water throughrepparttar 113333 burlap, then removerepparttar 113334 burlap and placerepparttar 113335 flat in full light all day long. Waiting even a few hours will cause your plants to "stretch" looking for sunlight, and will create long, skinny, weak stems, from which your plants will never fully recover. Temperatures can now be cooler than for germination, but remember that your plants will go dormant if temperatures go much below 60 degrees for any length of time.

6. Begin watering daily or as needed to maintain soil moisture, withrepparttar 113336 Constant Feed solution of 1 ounce Weekly Feed mix in 3 gallons of water (16 ounces in a 55 gallon barrel). Continue withrepparttar 113337 Constant Feed watering until plants are placed inrepparttar 113338 garden.

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