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Dawn patrol. The morning is exploding out of
east, a half-box of crayons streaking across
sky.
Slowly, reluctantly, a bed-head emerges from
warm confines of a sleeping bag, followed by an arm, then a body. Eventually there are four or five of us milling about, sleepy-eyed, blinking away
night. One of us is munching away on Raisin Bran,
staple of his morning breakfasts, with
thousand-mile stare of a man sleep-deprived. Another is finding comfort in his coffee, and well, he should, considering he woke
surf camp staff at 6 a.m. to get it. When we find out that that only those with their own equipment can hit
water, we are disappointed, but understand
liability issues. So we are reduced to spectators, watching from
bluffs above
beach. The sunrise has reached
far horizon now, where ocean is beginning to distinguish itself from
sky. Down below, we see several lone surfers paddling into
morning gray, looking for that first set.
Such a devotion to surfing may surprise some, but those familiar with surfing understand. "Once you catch that first wave, when you stand up and you make your first turn, you get hooked," explained Jason Senn, owner of Endless Summer Surf Camp in San Clemente, California. Sun-baked and ocean-washed, Jason has been a part of
camp since 1991, when he was brought aboard as director. According to him,
most rewarding part of his job is seeing
progression of his students throughout
week. In fact, several of his alumni surf competitively today. There is a downside, however. "Surfing can become an addiction. You start making excuses to go surfing. Missing class, missing work." Dawn patrol was a testament to that.
By 9:30 a.m., well after Dawn Patrol had returned from its first foray,
rest of
day campers had arrived (there were roughly 12 day campers and 12 overnighters). We assembled on
beach, and although
morning fog was still hazy along
beach, it was already growing warm. A soft off-shore breeze carried
smell of salt and sun block. After a quick briefing about
basics of surfing and water safety, we were matched up with our instructors, about 3 students per staff member. After a few more detailed lessons, we hit
surf.
Three things I learned this day: 1) Surfing is tough. One aspect that is not emphasized on TV is paddling out. Getting pounded by wave after wave while your shoulder and trapezius muscles are screaming Fire! with exertion makes you very humble, very fast. There's a reason why surfers look
way they do; 2) You can't breath underwater, and 3) I don't plan on quitting my day job to join
pro surf tour any time soon.