Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as
professionals usually refer to
task, can be done by
homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by
homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry. Measuring and Ordering Drywall
Prior to actually hanging
drywall,
material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of
surface area, starting with
ceilings and then
walls. Calculate
total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you
number of 4’x 8’ sheets of drywall required for
job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4’x12’, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into
existing home.
For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.
For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.
Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.
Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25” length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required. Drywall Tools
Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain
proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on
ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2”x 4”s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than
height of
ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3’ in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting
crossbar to
main stem of
Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up
drywall to
ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place. In addition to
Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.
If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For
taping knifes you will need a 6” wide blade and a 12” wide blade.
Preparing
site for Drywall
Prior to hanging
drywall, make sure
building inspector has first approved
Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over
insulation on
outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating
vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to
framing, covering
insulation. Finally, inspect all of
framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2” x 4”s) are existent at each corner and header, that
framing is straight, and that
framed walls create smooth planes. In addition,
ceiling should have strapping applied (1” x 3” cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.
Safety
Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to
eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in
material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.
Installing Drywall
Start with
ceiling as this will allow
sheets on
walls to help hold
sheets on
ceiling. Use
Drywall lift or Jacks to hold
sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to
ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking
paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten
screws/nails to
edges of
drywall first and then fill in
field afterwards.
Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall. After
ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to
walls. Drywall should be applied from
top down, with
sheets hung perpendicular to
floor joists or studs. Again
rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about ½ inches from
sub-floor.
For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply
large sheets of drywall over
doors and window openings and cut out
excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.
Installing Corner bead
Once
drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate
framing.