The build up to dinner was an event in itself with all guests meeting at 7pm for drinks and given an entertaining, detailed account of gourmet meal that was to follow by Richard chef and owner. Everything is hand prepared on premises, some of sauces (the highlight of most plates) take up to three days in creation. It's three fabulous starters each, in our case a plate of meltingly succulent scallops, then a rich, baked butternut soup with a dollop of creamy pesto and a plate of Mozambican king prawns. A small freshening sorbet provided Richard time for final preparations of main course, an elaborate plate of choice lamb cuts on rosti with three different chutneys, and rounded off with a rich chocolate concoction, perfectly offset by homemade orange-infused vanilla ice cream.

Breakfast next morning followed in a similar style and although difficult to leave we knew that we had to walk some of this food off or we would never make next meal. That food was possibly best I have ever eaten but seriously doubt having survived 2 days of this non stop eating.

Kamberg hosts a site of Bushman rock art with relative easy access, a stunning walk including a waterfall, and particularly well preserved examples of Bushman paintings. It is here that "Rosetta Stone" of San art first provided archaeologists with key to interpreting symbolism of paintings as spiritual in content - showing how hunters gained power from animals that they killed. Its all professionally explained by guides and although I had seen these paintings before I was again moved.

The road to our next stop Antbear turned out to be just a little hop away mainly because Richard had guided us via back roads. The Antbear Guest House is one of those seldom found gems hidden away in a network of rural roads in Drakensberg foothills. The little white washed farmhouse has been converted into a place of artistic elegance. It is full of hand sculptured wooden furniture, a labor of Conny and Andrews love. Andrew greeted us dressed in very flamboyantly African dress and welcomed us with a cup of tea. He is a humorous character with a passion for entertaining, conversation and alternative living.

Andrew is a dab hand in kitchen too. The food is very different to that of Cleopatra definitely not as rich but no less of an experience. Supper was best Indian food I have ever eaten with a selection of curries, papdams, onion badjis, sambals and naan bread to boot. Andrew quite likes company in kitchen and its really different watching this kind of cooking. Its like a circus as he casually juggles egg turner or adds a handfull of spice to some frying onions. The hosts eat with guests at a single table with candle chandeliers and a fireplace. Its very welcoming indeed. For desert Andrew whipped up caramelized cape gooseberries in whiskey with hint of time. Why Antbear is so affordable is a bit of a mystery me and till today Antbear is my favourite guesthouse anywhere.

Armed with Conny’s picnic lunch setoff to Giants Castle Nature Reserve. Giants Castle is a spectacular part of Drakensberg and one of my favorite regions. Its has less tourism than most other parts and I have always wondered why as it is about as beautiful as it comes. We wanted an easy walk so opted for Worlds View a 14 km trail with a spectacular 360° view at its end. We had lunch and soaked in views and got back to Giants Castle Camp in time for a well-earned cappuccino and piece of cheesecake.

Dinner back at Antbear turned out to be a Moroccan evening. Again food was excellent. Andrews advice and enthusiasm inspires confidence and we reorganised some of our plans The following day was supposed to be a visit to battlefields but I had forgotten about Drakensberg Boys Choir. Andrew arranged tickets for us and this is really something not to be missed under any circumstances. The day was spent in Champagne Valley another beautiful part of Drakensberg.

Our white shark encounters provided action from daybreak until sunset. Swimming slowly and cautiously around our shark cages were male and female white sharks ranging between sizes of 12 to 16 feet in length. During close-up passes, sharks looked directly at us, revealing different color variations in their eyes. The center of their eyes is not black as described; they are actually brown. While staring into eyes of one of great whites, I noticed a thin, beautiful, blue circle. The great whites also have cones in their eyes. Animals having such cones are able to see different colors; therefore, it is likely that great whites also see color variations.

The water temperature at island ranges between 70 – 75 degrees Fahrenheit. A 7mm wetsuit with a hood and boots, or a drysuit is recommended for exposure protection. I used a ¼ inch wetsuit, but I plan on having a drysuit for next year’s trip. Most of participants wore wetsuits and were just fine---some were even a bit warm.