Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com

To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/food/vegas/commanders/palace.html

One of Mark Twain’s finest novels is “Life on The Mississippi", chronicling his younger days piloting — steamboatin’ on Mighty Miss. Originally, Twain was on his way to Amazon River to create a epic about riverboat life in Brazil, but obviously Emile Commander’s restaurant at corner of Washington Avenue and Coliseum Street, in Creole Garden District of New Orleans’ Vieux Càrre, or French Quarter, convinced him to stay.

Since 1880s when Louisiana officially joined Union, Commander’s Palace has been in same location and still operating, serving such celebrated diners as Confederate President Jefferson Davis. But locals still love their fine dining establishment as much as tourists. The land it sits on at one time was part of J.F.E Livaudois Plantation and Faubourg of Lafayette. The plantation grew into becoming New Orleans, and by 1900 Commander’s Palace was attracting gourmands from all over world.

During Roaring Twenties wild rivertown was known to be a little spicier, with riverboat captains frequenting Prohibition (ahem . . . Bourbon please) restaurant, and even high society dining in private salon upstairs (with separate entrance).

It took 125 years for Commander’s Palace to jump over Rockies and land in Las Vegas, but it did, with a great location on Strip in Aladdin Hotel and Casino, within Desert Passage Shopping Mall.

In 1944, Frank and Elinor Moran bought Commander’s Palace, and carried on its tradition of excellence with an expanded menu, including many recipes still used today in both Commander locations.

In 1974, Ella, Dottie, Dick, and John Brenan supervised restaurant and they gave old landmark an overhaul with redesigned rooms, seating indoors that complemented outdoors garden setting, all planned for a light, breezy ambiance.

The Las Vegas Commander’s Palace is trimmed in dark woods, and entrance opens up into a room that is a little Arabesque in height and style and subtle lighting — well of course, you are at Aladdin! Dining was certainly casual, and then I noticed immense Persian rum hanging on wall.

Crisp linens and quick service with intelligent wait staff makes this a happening winner. I couldn’t get in for Mother’s Day but following Sunday was Jazz Brunch at noon (every Sunday is Jazz Brunch at noon).

Sharath, our captain, has an advanced degree in Culinary Arts in Switzerland, and while traveling with his India ambassador father polished his food presentation skills as smooth as teak on a steamer deck.

From our gabled window perch blue Nevada sky stretched to mountains. So before I fork on over to tell you about dining, let’s talk about Commander’s Palace Las Vegas awards:

Winner of Best Restaurant on Strip Las Vegas Life Epicurean Awards

Winner of Best Restaurant of Year Taste of Las Vegas

Winner of Best Service Las Vegas Life Epicurean Awards

Winner of Best New Restaurant on Strip Las Vegas Life Epicurean Awards

Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com

To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/food/vegas/ark/lasvegas.html

In Los Angeles it seems all waiters in fine restaurants are awaiting their big break as actors; in Las Vegas it seems that all waiters and captains have advanced college degrees — and that is what is making Strip one of hottest dining areas in world.

It is so refreshing to not only dine in style, but also to carry on philosophical discussions with captain of our table — so is case with our wonderful experience at Lutèce, inside Venetian Resort and Casino, only restaurant in hotel facing Strip and overlooking Grand Canal. Our captain, Jason, is a pleasurable and congenial young man, recently married, working on his PhD in Philosophy and Ancient Civilizations, so naturally gamut of conversation ranges from recent Aristotle scroll high tech computer deciphering to wine from ancient Rome.

We start evening with Evian water but Lutèce (loo - tess) offers Pellegrino sparkling water as well, which we follow with a modestly priced bottle of Brouilly Beaujolais Cru, Chateau de la Chaize, ’02 (or at $11 a glass), made from pure Gamay grapes. According to Jason, it is one of few red grapes that should be slightly chilled, like most white wines.

Lutèce is one of two Ark restaurants in Venetian Resort, and it has one of best wine selections in Las Vegas, in a town with some of best cellars in world. The extensive wine menu includes crisp white blends, unusual Syrahs (even a petit Syrahs), extensive champagnes, prestige Cuvees, Meritage/Proprietary varietals, and even rare finds like Saint Estephe and Saint Julien and Saint Emilion and Puiseeguin Saint Emilion. The most expensive bottle in their line-up is probably Chateau Mouton Rothschild ’82 at $2400 a bottle.

Our celebrity chef of evening, Andre Becker, recommends, as does Jason, five course tasting menu that begins with an appetizer of Scottish Smoked Salmon on Baby Frisee Salad, and Citrus Crème Fraiche Vinaigrette ($16); freshest I have had since I left Celtic isles.