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Long ago, Polynesians traveled ocean searching for land. Suddenly, in distant horizon, sky glowed red.

Heading towards light, these seafarers discovered volcanic firework display of Hawaii's Big Island. Generations have passed, but sparkling blue waters continue to lap over primal lava rocks, bubble across white, black and green sand beaches, and splash up sheer cliffs for modern day seafaring visitors to enjoys.

These visitors have come to appreciate island's diversity that contributes to its unique history, culture and landscape. Fashioned by five massive volcanoes, Hawaii's Big Island is largest of Hawaiian Islands at 4,038 square miles, youngest at 800,000 years, and most diverse, boasting 11 of 13 world climate zones.

The off-the-beaten-path beach adventure begins in Hilo. Along coast of Keaukaha enormous boulders and lava rocks create protective coves for refreshing water fun. A favorite swimming hole is Richardson's Ocean Park. A picturesque brackish water pond leads to lava rocks that slope into clear, ocean. The calm waters make it a perfect place to swim, snorkel or kayak with abundant sea life. When conditions are right, building surf makes it a great place for boogie boarding. A restroom facility is available, and a lifeguard is on duty throughout day.

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It is Friday at noon and Robin and I are sailing across Nantucket Sound on Grey Lady, Hy-Line Cruises third generation, water-jet catamaran, a high-speed ferry that will take us from Hyannis to Nantucket in just one hour. (Opening photo: The Wauwinet draws its name from land on which it was built, which in turn was named for a 17th century Native American sachem who controlled eastern part of Nantucket Island. With 35 exquisite rooms it serves guests from May through October.)

Like most passengers aboard, we begin to feel tug of urban life loosen its grip as we anticipate slower pace of island life just ahead. At near full-capacity Grey Lady is delivering its daily catch of island regulars and first-time weekenders to isle some thirty miles off coast of Cape Cod. We stare at water and watch ripple of waves emerge from catamaran's hull. We bathe in hypnotic effect of sea, sun and spirals of wind that touch down on surface. Happily, by time we arrive at historic wharves of Nantucket, we are already relaxed.

We disembark and pick up our luggage from rolling carts crew has hustled from ship's hold. A few steps from gangway we see a friendly face hoisting a hand-carved, hand-painted sign overhead that reads, "The Wauwinet." We work our way through mid-day crush of visitors that spills from shops of town center and within minutes are aboard inn's jitney, making nine mile drive toward Great Point and quiet side of island.

"Welcome back," our driver Clarence intones in a deep Caribbean timbre that makes us feel like we've been wrapped in a soft blanket. "We'll have you there in a bit," he adds. "The weather is wonderful and you've come at just right time."

The Wauwinet is located on a strip of land between Atlantic Ocean and Nantucket Bay, tucked in next to a bird sanctuary. It is itself a sanctuary from often frantic pace of island's center and is last commercial property on road to Great Point Lighthouse and nature preserve that surrounds it. Approaching mid-19th century inn, one might not guess that in two years prior to its reopening in 1988, it was virtually rebuilt from foundation up in a $3-million renovation by new owners Stephen and Jill Karp, who purchased The Wauwinet House — as it had previously been known — in 1986. To conform to strict code of Nantucket's Historic District Commission, exterior of building retains look of original with unpainted cedar shingles that have weathered to a soft gray.

"We've been expecting you," Innkeeper Bettina Landt greets us in a most likable tone. The bellman and reception crew scurry to attend our arrival as she adds rhetorically, "You had a good cruise?"

Our eyes soak in stunning décor, antiques and oil paintings that surround cozy reception room, and from our first steps inside The Wauwinet, we sense that this is an uncommon place. It feels more like we have just arrived for a summer stay with old friends, and they are genuinely happy to see us. The Wauwinet is only Relais & Chatêaux property on Nantucket, 50-year old international hotel and restaurant association whose signature "Five C's" stand for Character, Calm, Charm, Courtesy, and Cuisine. I add one more C, for "clearly", this is not just another inn on island.

Our bay-view room, like each of 35 guest rooms, is individually decorated. The Karps worked closely with New York interior design firm Kuckly Associates to transform historic inn to meet needs of a contemporary clientele accustomed to best in accommodation. Each of high-ceilinged rooms was equipped with paddle fans and guest-controlled heating and air-conditioning. Cozy nooks were fitted in to provide comfortable spots for reading or taking in seascape visible from windows. Antique pine armoires and chests, upholstered headboards, chairs and decorative objects such as baskets, hat boxes and wood-carvings are all distinctly individual as are bedspread and drapery fabrics and wallpaper borders around ceilings. Fresh flowers stand on bedside tables while sheets and pillowcases are eyelet-trimmed. Bathrooms are embellished with brass fixtures, their floors tiled in white and their walls paneled with bead-and-board wainscoting. Above paneling, hand-sponging or glazing by local artisans in pastel glazes suggests style of 1920s seaside cottages.