PRUNING AND TRAINING GARDEN SHRUBS"The Art and Science of Pruning"
By Alan Jolliffe
Pruning is
art of training plants. Pruning is not an end in itself. Pruning is a stimulus for desirable plant growth.
Introduction. Very few publications on pruning mention
relationship between pruning and training when explaining how to prune all types of plants, particularly of garden shrubs. This relationship is vital and must be well understood by gardeners, unfortunately it is not. Often pruning and training is not well practiced in both public and private gardens. However pruning, and therefore training, is one of those garden arts which must be practiced - and practice makes perfect.
Pruning is both an art and science, but there is now a lot more science than art and that is not a good thing. Pruning is becoming a lost art and it needs to be revived before it is lost altogether. The training of young plants is more important than
control of old plants or
regeneration of old plants. Young plants are very easily trained from
time they are planted out in
garden.
Of all
jobs in
garden nothing causes so much controversy and worry as does pruning.
Why do we prune? To grow large blooms for exhibition or fun using all
plant's vigor. To train
plant to best suit
position we planted it in. To remove
dead and diseased wood from
plant. To keep
plant in proportion for
position in which it is growing. To ensure maximum air and sunlight reach all parts of
plant. To enable
best features of
plant to be shown off in
garden.
Tools of
trade. The first priority is to make sure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. The basic tools are secateurs and a hand pruning saw. Loppers are alright but can be an unnecessary expense. Secateurs are used to cut branches up to 20mm in diameter after that you can use a saw without doing any harm to
branch. A hand saw can cut quite large diameter branches without difficulty. In fact far to many people use a chainsaw when they do not have to and a chainsaw is very dangerous in these situations. They are also slower by
time you get them started and make
cut, a handsaw is faster and better exercise!
Starting to prune. Always start pruning from
top down. One of
most common mistakes is to remove
weaker shoots at
bottom of
shrub thus creating a clear stem sometimes many centimeters off
ground. (These are then 'standard' shrubs). Starting at
top allows you to shape
plant more easily. You can see
plant and get a much better idea of
shrub when finished.
Look for what I call
'inner shape'. On many shrubs it is possible to see an outline of foliage smaller than
existing shrub. Removal of
foliage back to this shape is then a relatively easy matter. It is
identification of
inner shape that allows you,
artist and gardener, to quickly and easily complete
pruning of any tree or shrub. You will know what you are aiming to achieve and that makes
task easier.
Once cut you cannot put
plant pieces back on
plant so don't cut back to far. It is just as easy to come back and take some more material off rather than be disappointed.