After poking around a bit more, outdoors beckons and we make our way through French doors that lead to great lawn on bay side of inn. The lawn is surrounded by beach rose and dozens of song birds singing cheerfully in bush. It is a lovely place, soft and inviting. Here guests read and doze away afternoon nesting in thickly-cushioned, white-wicker recliners.

The Wauwinet's transformation was also designed to restore marine activity that had long characterized northeastern end of island. To this end, Nantucket Bay beach was renewed and a 254-foot dock added, reminiscent of historic wharf where sailing vessels from Nantucket Town once disembarked guests for diner and overnight stays. Now, Captain Rob McMullen sails The Wauwinet Lady on twice-daily cruises that bring up to 26 guests from town to Topper's, inn's award-winning restaurant led by Chef Christopher Freeman. (See accompanying feature, Zagat: Topper's Best on Cape and The Islands.)

At 4:00 p.m. Bettina Landt reappears to announce start of sherry and cheese hour in library. Normally, library is locked except for house guests who may use quiet space at anytime, gaining entrance with their room key. The doors are left open only between 4:00 and 5:00 p.m. and again at 7:15 in morning for early risers who wish for coffee and homemade muffins. On this day Bettina pours your choice of sherry or port and prepares a plate of fresh crackers with Chevre, Camembert or Crottin Chavignol, which she serves in library or delivers back to your chaise on lawn.

We learn that Bettina and her husband Eric, who heads up food and beverage area, are in their third year at inn. Before that she had spent nearly five years with Four Seasons in New York City and Hawaii. Eric, in turn worked several years with both Hilton and Sheraton. They bring a rare blend of knowledge and experience from big-time, corporate hospitality-trade that gives them confidence to serve their guests in a charming, easy going manner.

The inn's jitney runs to town and back every hour or so and we, along with a young Manhattan couple, Cindy and Dave, take 6:25 to make dinner at The Pearl, an exotic seafood-fusion restaurant. The Pearl's motif appears predominately turquoise — wait staff wears turquoise shirts and a turquoise, glowing-light scheme, that seems to emanate from large fish tank in center of room, gives overall effect of dining underwater. Somehow, it works and Sashimi taste delightful.

Back at inn we stop at intimate Topper's lounge for a nightcapand are introduced to a "flight" of Calvados — equivalent of one drink split across three ascending price levels, served in cordial-size glasses on a silver tray; 1st tier a VSOP, 2nd a Selection, and 3rd a 15 year Hors d'age — all Calvados Morin from Maison Fondee founded in 1889.

Read The Topper's Feature by Jim HollisterWe chat with David Silva, a sixth-generation Islander and owner of The Galley, one of island's most popular restaurants (known for its spectacular sunset view) and inquire as to why he is at Topper's. "All restaurant owners know each other out here and we eat at each other's places," he explains. "But in my opinion," he offers, "Topper's is best restaurant on island." Considering source, I'm struck by his ready endorsement.

Saturday begins with an hour of yoga under sunny skies on deck by bay side beach. Paul Bruno of The Yoga Room in Nantucket leads us through a vigorous, Iyengar-style class that leaves us feeling stretched, strengthened and invigorated. Paul's classes are held exclusively for guests on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 8:30 a.m. and are open to all levels. We dash from class back to our room where a pre-ordered breakfast of omelets, scones and coffee awaits. We have twenty minutes before we will meet up again with Cindy and Dave, and Naturalist David Perks for a three-hour, four-wheel drive excursion to Great Point nature reserve. The Wauwinet is only commercial establishment on island that has been given rights to transport guests on reserve.

To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/hotels/relais/wauwinet/wauwinet.html

Jim Hollister , Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com

The inn is only Martha’s Vineyard member of Relais & Chateaux, fifty-year old association of some 400 plus privately-owned hotels and gourmet restaurants in 40 countries throughout world. Some are countryside locations, others are former estates, castles, abbeys, or private residences, and according to their marketing mantra, all deliver standard 5C’s of character, courtesy, calm, charm, and cuisine. Leading travel, leisure, and gourmet magazines have repeatedly named The Charlotte Inn one best in America.

Entering through front door into a foyer resplendent in fine antiques and paintings, you get a thrilling sense of having traveled back in time. Straight ahead you approach grand mahogany desk to sign an old-fashioned ledger and be greeted by Manager Carol Read, a charming, 40-something woman whose reading glasses, perched perilously upon her nose, convey her thoughtful nature. “How was ferry ride?” she asks in a warm and welcoming tone, and then, “Let’s get you settled in and we can talk about where you’d like to have dinner.” After a short orientation of main house, including brief respite in aforementioned Green Room, we are led, literally, along garden path to our weekend retreat.

We establish ourselves in Carriage House suite, one of two at inn, and I can tell immediately it suits

To read this entire feature FREE with photos cut and paste this link: http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/hotels/relais/charlotte/charlotte.html

Jim Hollister , Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com