The third movement, played 'Adagio', returns you to greyness. The ethereal chords and unusual bent tones from kettledrums suggest a weird dream, kind that makes you wonder what was in last night's dinner.

When I looked down at my program and saw 'Allegro molto' for final movement, I began feeling around for a seat belt. Another wild, melodic ride ensued, carried by strings and spiced by cymbal and kettledrum. The movement is described as a country dance, and Maestro Tilson Thomas reminded me (forgive me here) of a huge dancing grasshopper, his long limbs and tuxedo tails flying. A final crescendo built into a sudden, almost unexpected ending. Spectacular! It was a long, arduous piece of music, and an intermission followed. This was entirely understandable, as musicians must have been drained. I certainly was.

The John F. Kennedy Center for Performing Arts, originally conceived under President Eisenhower, was dedicated in 1964 by Congress after Kennedy's death previous November. The Center's Grand Foyer contains a seven-foot-high bronze bust of JFK and a new interactive information system that teaches visitors about his life and legacy.

The Center contains several performing-arts venues: its 2,441 seat concert hall was renovated in 1997, and 2,200 seat opera house will close for a year-long renovation after this December's Kennedy Center Honors gala. Next to opera house is 1,100 seat Eisenhower Theater, and up on Terrace Level are two smaller venues. On display everywhere are gifts from around world: Italian marble walls, Norwegian chandeliers, art works from numerous countries. The entire Center was intended to be a living memorial to JFK, who believed that quality of a nation's civilization is reflected in vitality of its performing arts.

Carl Ruggles was a Twentieth-Century American composer who

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Rob LaGrone, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com

My usual first stop at a hotel is in-house lounge. This is where you get latest lounge lizard and bartender's versions of how to run a good hotel, and chance to check out out-of-towners. It is my Nielsen poll.

The chit chat was subdued and sublime, with a shift change, so there wasn't much coming forth with from lounge bartender, just golf talk from a couple of packaged vacationers. After no major breaking news bulletins issued at cozy lobby bar, I quickly drained my Heineken and spun away across blond hardwood floors that could serve double duty in a line dance venue.

There are several restaurant presently at JW Marriott. That evening I was inducted into fine Italian dining at Ceres, a formal and sedate dining venue - a sort of continental European atmosphere, with a very formal staff, held in check by prim and proper restaurant manager, a step back to a Casablanca film figure. There we are back in Morocco. I really like Ceres, and they have a special room out towards back of restaurant that is private, but it was very hot - this was last legs of summer. So I shed my jacket like snakeskin.

Ceres, in Spa Tower, overlooks waterfalls and garden and serves classic seafood dishes. Ceres also has a five seat section with a large paned glass looking on to furiously working chefs. The chefs bring items to glass for diners to check, and they explain how things are prepared. It was a unique touch. You can sample food, too.

This is Ceres' claim to fame - and it is fame well deserved, so pass it around to your friends.

* King Crab Mediterranean Seafood Stew. * One pound of Alaska King Crab Legs. * Pan-Seared Oregano Salmon, with Citrus Pine Nut Toasted Israeli Couscous. with Olive Roman Tomatoes, and Italian Parsley Butter Broth. * Other fare includes Sea Bass, Snapper, Seafood Scampi, Lamb Chops, Steaks, Lobsters.

Everthing is served elegantly at Ceres. I picked Salmon, just because it sounded most elegant. When it arrived, it was seared perfectly, crispy outside, and flakey on inside, just way I like it. Take Oyster Rockefeller for an appetizer.

Many of other restaurants along Promenade

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Kriss Hammond, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com