SIGNED VS. UNSIGNED-BUYING VINTAGE JEWELRY, ART Written by by Laura Thykeson - Owner of "Ice Originals II"
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Art world, if you aren’t listed, you usually won’t get a second look, unless you are persistent in displaying your items and pieces to public, target demographic audience that will most likely be interested in your work, and create or produce often enough to have fresh and new pieces for people to choose from. I feel, and know for a fact, that there are many artists out there who are just as successful as they choose to be, and have marketed themselves entirely on their own, or worked through another individual, perhaps a friend with a website or their own website, without having to pay huge commissions for sales, bother with an agent, or rub elbows with elite at a gallery “wine and cheese” Art Show. Not to mention sometimes biased juried shows that you can become involved in, which can not only break your heart and spirit, but sour you on whole idea of pursuing something you used to enjoy so much. Do I sound cynical? Probably, but I have never been a mainstream thinker, always wanting to have control over pricing, display, description, and target audience of my particular style. You are probably wondering, “Well ok, where are all things that you have painted/created/sold, if you know so much?”. They are all gone, because I sold them all! I have sold literally hundreds of decorative items, paintings, hand-painted jewelry and purses, ceramics, and other items, by doing it my own way. There is a little secret to this though, all those items were signed with a different name than I have now! Under my “old name” I was at least locally immediately recognized. Now, it’s like starting over to re-establish myself. I didn’t start painting in beginning because I ever thought I would sell anything-I started painting because I was bored and had always wanted to paint. I never imagined, that just through word of mouth, that my art would blossom into a full time business that I maintained for many years. I did commission work, sold to wholesalers, had my own line of clothing and purses during “wearable art” phase, and was literally working 14 hours a day to keep up. I specialized in unique designs, nothing was ever same, and all were my own original concepts. I experimented with techniques, and made alot of mistakes and had alot of successes along way, and finally, I just got tired. I even taught art classes, which is funny, since I never went to any classes myself! I am totally self-taught. I have gone through all of this to come to this final point. Am I listed? No. Am I a worldwide collected Artist? No. Do my older pieces bring higher prices than what I initially sold them for? Occasionally. Will I be famous after I’m dead? Who knows and who cares! I have had fun, made money, made alot of close friendships, and all along, I have done it My Way. My real point of this whole discussion is-my clients didn’t buy my work because I was a well known, collected artist-they bought it because they liked my work! I still run into past clients who have pieces I did for them by commission, and they never fail to tell me how much they still enjoy it, and “Am I still painting?”. That goes to show you that if a work of Art appeals to you, don’t worry about if it is a known artist or a newcomer. These people obviously still enjoy their piece of Art, which is true purpose of buying Art anyway, aside from basic fact that it is a very personal form of expression for Artist.
To sum this discussion up, just remember a couple of things. Don’t overlook that lovely piece of Art or Artisan creation that either reminds you of something special, or just really appeals to your sense of design, just because it is reasonably priced and you have never heard of Artist. Also, don’t hesitate to purchase that lower priced, good quality piece of jewelry, just because it may not be signed by a widely-known and collected designer, if it appeals to you and passes “5 year rule”. You never know who or what will someday become next sought after designer, item or style, and besides that, you will never regret your purchase, you will get alot of enjoyment from it, and you won’t be out a bundle of money. Today’s unknown could well be tomorrow’s “Picasso”!
Laura Thykeson is a practicing Artist, business owner, published poet, and a big advocate and promoter of “The Underdog” as well as the emerging Artist/Artisan. She owns the following businesses:
“Ice Originals II ~ Collectibles, Jewelry and Artistic Designs http://www.tias.com/stores/iceorig
“Ice Originals - Inside out!!!” http://www.iceoriginals.faithweb.com
“Ice Originals Toonz” http://www.iceorig.com
What You Should Know about SMAW!Written by Thomas Yoon
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Many types and sizes of welding machines are used for shielded metal-arc welding. The current of a Constant-Current type does not change significantly in variations in arc length. This is preferred for manual welding operations.
The Constant-Potential type of welding machine adjusts current according to arc length. If used in a manual operation, unavoidable variations in arc length will produce large fluctuations in current, resulting in an unstable, non-uniform arc. For automatic operations, constant electrode feed rate establishes a stable arc and uniform arc length.
The current rating of machine is its maximum current output. A current rating of 400 amp means machine can deliver up to 400 amps of welding current.
The duty cycle rating of machine is safe operating capacity for non-stop welding. This is expressed as a percentage over a 10-minute period over which a machine can deliver its rated maximum welding current output without damage or overheating. An 80 percent 400-amp machine is one, which can deliver 400 amps of welding current for a total of 8 minutes out of every 10, and must idle at least, 2 minutes out of every 10 for cooling.
Tools and Accessories
The tools for SMAW are: cables, holders, clamps, chipping hammer, wire brush. The protective equipment are face shield, goggles, apron, gloves, shoes, long sleeved shirt. The protective equipment is to avoid eye injuries, and burns. Also there is a need to prevent electric shocks, especially in wet areas.
Selecting an Electrode
Electrodes are classified by their core material: mild steel, high-carbon steel, special alloy steel, cast iron, and non-ferrous. Mild steel electrodes are most commonly used. In general, electrode core material is matched as closely as possible with composition of base metal. Electrode size varies with thickness of base metal.
The size and characteristics of selected electrode determine arc current settings on welding machine. Normally, range of recommended amperage for electrode is given by manufacturer.
Set up and Operation
Observe fire precautions before starting to weld. No combustible should be near work area.
With electrical power still off; clamp earth wire to work piece and electrode on holder. Turn on power. To strike an arc, position end of electrode about 1 inch above weld start point. Lower your face shield and with a rapid tapping of scratching motion, touch electrode to base of metal. Immediately after contact, raise end of electrode slightly to establish an arc whose length is approximately equal to electrode diameter.
If you do not raise electrode fast enough, it will stick to work. Twist or bend electrode to break it free. If electrode does not break free, quickly release it from holder. With a little practice, you can learn to strike an arc without electrode sticking.
When current settings and a proper arc length is maintained, a continuous cracking sound is heard while welding. A humming sound indicates that arc length is too long or current is too high. Arcs too short make a popping sound and may flash on and off, indicating electrode is sticking and short circuiting to base metal.
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