b: Brown - The rabbit is brown based, meaning base colour is chocolate or lilac.

C LOCUS

"C" is next "letter". This "letter" tells rabbit whether or not to have red colouring, as well as how deep and dark base colouring is. The genes are as follows:

C: Full Colour - The red colouration of fur is full expressed, and base colouring is also fully expressed.

c(chd): Chinchilla Dark - All red colouration is removed from coat, but base colouring is still fully expressed.

c(chl): Chinchilla Light - All red colouration is removed from coat, and base colouring is lightened, causing darker shading around head, ears, tail, feet, and legs.

c(h): Californian - All red colouration is removed, and base colouration is restricted to nose, ears, feet, legs, and tail. The eyes are red.

c: Albino - All colour is restricted, leaving a pure white rabbit with red eyes.

D LOCUS

Next in genetics alphabet is "D". This "letter" determines how much pigment is in each hair shaft. The less pigment there is, lighter colour is. The genes are as follows:

D: Dense - Full amount of pigment

d: Dilute - The pigment is less, causing colour to look diluted.

E LOCUS

The "letter" "E" controls banding, or colour rings (remember in agoutis where you can see rings when you blow into coat?) of a rabbit. The genes are as follows:

E(s): Steel - The undercolour is extended and "takes over" colour, leaving a mostly solid coloured rabbit with some gold or silver tipped hairs.

E: Full-Extension - The rabbit has normal colour, and bands are not disturbed.

e(j): Japanese - This takes bands and actually seperates band colour into different hair shafts. This is how Tricolourr and Harlequin are produced.

e: Non-Extension - There is no colour extension, leaving only what would be intermediate band in a normal coloured rabbit. This is how Oranges, Frosed Pearls, and Tortoises are produced.

EN LOCUS

The "En" "letter" controls a different type of pattern. The genes are as follows:

En English Spotting - The rabbit is white with coloured spots.

en: Solid - The rabbit has no spots.

V LOCUS

"V" is next "letter" in genetic alphabet, and for most breeds, no more of alphabet is needed to know variety. This tells whether or not rabbit is a Blue Eyed White.

V: Non-Vienna - Normal coloured rabbit.

v: Vienna - Blue Eyed White.

W LOCUS

This "letter" is rarely included in genotype because it is not very important in most varieties, though all varieties DO use it.

W: Non-Wideband - Normal colouring.

w: Wideband - The red colour becomes very intense, intermediate band widens, and red colour "takes over" all tan pattern and agouti markings so that instead of being cream or white, they are red.

SI LOCUS

This "letter" is another that is rarely included in genotype. All non-silver rabbits do not need this included in their genotype in order to let viewer know that rabbit is not silver.

Si: No-Silver - Normal colouring.

si: Silver - Silver-white hairs are scattered throughout normal colouring.

DU LOCUS

This "letter" is usually only used when refering to breeds Dutch, Dwarf Hotot, and Hotot.

Du: Non-Dutch - Normal colouring.

du(d): Dutch Dark - Dutch markings, mostly coloured rather than white.

du(w): Dutch White - Dutch markings, mostly white rather than coloured.

Genotypes

In order to have a full knowledge of variety of a rabbit, just by looking at genotype, a full genotype, using all of these loci. For example, a Chestnut Agouti would be denoted as A_ B_ C_ D_ E_ enen V_ W_ Si_ Du_. The spaces just mean that a recessive gene could be there, hidden by dominant gene. However, most people know that shortened form of genotype, A_ B_ C_ D_ E_ enen, also means Chesntut Agouti.

Many breeders use feed supplements to help improve condition of rabbit's flesh and coat. Some examples are Showbloom, Doc's Rabbit Enhancer, Calf Manna, and black oil sunflower seeds. With Showbloom and Doc's Rabbit Enhancer, follow feeding instructions carefully. With calf manna and sunflower seeds, you may have to experiment a bit to see how much is right. I usually start with a small handful. Too much of a supplement can cause opposite effect of what you want, making rabbit fat, flabby, or put it into a moult (shedding coat out). If you supplement, be sure to cut back slightly amount of feed you provide. Also, when your rabbit gets into prime condition, cut back supplements and feed a little as rabbit burns less energy while in prime.

ENTERING A SHOW

Your rabbits are in good condition, and you are ready to enter your first show. Contact show secretary to get a catalog. When you get it, be sure to read rule carefully, and make sure to watch deadline for entries. Fill out entry form completely. Ear number is number and/or letter combination that is tattooed in your rabbit's left ear. If there is no tattoo, you will need to get it tattooed. Some breeders will tattoo for you, and most registrars at shows will tattoo for a small fee. Breed is type of rabbit, such as Netherland Dwarf or Rex. Variety is colour of your rabbit. Be sure to check your Standard of Perfection for variety classes as some breeds (such as all lops, all angora, and Jersey Woolies) are shown by colour groups rather than by individual colour. Sex is gender of your rabbit. A buck is a male, a doe is a female. Class is your rabbit's age. Most breeds are shown as either a senior (6 months or over) or a junior (under 6 months). The large breeds are shown as a senior (8 months or over), intermediate (6 to 8 months), or a junior (under 6 months). Be sure to check your Standard of Perfection to see what classes are offered in your breed. Fur is where you can enter your rabbit in either breed or commercial normal (if your breed has normal "Flyback" fur) fur class. Your rabbit has to be entered in a regular class to compete in fur, where it will be judged solely on quality and condition of its fur.

Most shows are pre-entry, meaning you have to send in your entry before show. A few are day of show entry, where you arrive early and enter at show. If it is a pre-entry, be sure to send entry off before deadline is past or your entry will probably be rejected.

SHOWING

Get to show a little early to allow yourself time to set up, check in, and see what table your breed is being judged at. After setting up and checking tables, groom your rabbits. Then you can wander around show room to talk to breeders, look at other rabbits, etc. Be careful to check your breed's table often to see when your rabbit is up to be shown. Most of time someone will announce what class is being called up, but it cannot always be heard. Classes will not be rejudged if you miss them, so get your rabbits up to table on time!

When your rabbit's class is called, take your rabbit to table. You will see several small cages called holding coops. In front of these will be comment cards with rabbits' information. Find card that has your rabbit's ear tattoo number on it and place your rabbit in corresponding holding coop. Then, to make it easier for other exhibitors, flip card over.

Don't talk while judge is giving comments on any rabbit because even if it isn't your rabbit, rabbit's owner may want to hear comments. Pay close attention to judge's comments as they will help you learn. When table held puts comment card on top of your rabbit's holding coop, that means it is done being shown. Take it back to your set up. If it won Best of Variety (BOV), Best Opposite of Variety (BOSV), Best of Group (BOG), or Best Opposite of Group (BOSG) it will need to come back later to compete for Best of Breed (BOB) and Best Opposite of Breed (BOSB). Be sure to watch for when they call up winners to compete for BOB and BOSB as you don't want to miss your chance at winning!

If your rabbit wins Best of Breed, it will later compete for Best in Show (BIS) and Reserve in Show (RIS). The table for Best In Show judging will be announced after a winner in each breed is chosen. If you are competing for BIS and RIS, take your rabbit to BIS table when it is time. Place it in any of holding coops at that table, then move out of judging area. Then wait for judge(s) to judge rabbits and announce winners.

If you win anything, be sure to find awards table to see if you get any awards. Bring your comment card with you, and show it to awards secretary.

Finally, show is over. Clean up all your mess, pack up your equipment, and load up your rabbit(s). You've survived your first show, and before you know it you will have a bad case of rabbit show fever!

OTHER

It is highly recommended that you join American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). This will provide you with invalluable information, as well as allow you to register and grand champion your rabbits. Go to ARBA website at http://www.arba.net for a membership form, or you can pick them up at most shows (check commercial booths or ask registrars for one).