•2 per cent had used crystal meth.

•1 per cent had used heroin.

Effects of Crystal Meth

“Crystal meth is an amphetamine drug that both stimulates and disinhibits, and like all amphetamines it can increase your heart rate, increase your blood pressure, raise your body temperature and cause seizures. Viagra dilates your blood vessels, and overall stress on your heart from combining these drugs can put a dangerous strain on your heart, increasing your risk of having a heart attack or stroke.” For HIV Positive, it’s thought, meth use carries other health risks. Doctors are concerned that crystal meth’s interaction with HAART could result in an accidental meth overdose.

HIV positive meth users become ill more quickly than they would have otherwise, take longer to recover from infections and respond poorly to HIV treatments.

Crystal use has already had serious consequences for US gay community and is all too rapidly spreading through UK. It has been around for a while, but with new drugs like Viagra overcoming crystal’s tendency to make you temporarily impotent, despite being horny, it’s never been more popular. Meth users experience a feeling of exhilaration, alertness and heightened sexual desire.

US call it PNP (Party ‘n Play), in UK we call it ‘chem sex’, but it means same - taking drugs to enhance 1-2-1 or group sex. Crystal meth already has ability to disinhibit and increase sexual desire; add other drugs into mix and invite real trouble. “Crystal meth makes people horny but it also makes it difficult to get a hard on,” says Dr Gavin Yamey, senior editor of US medical journal PloS Medicine. “That’s why some crystal meth users also take Viagra.”

Gay men mix Viagra with crystal meth, in addition to other party drugs, at circuit parties, according to a study by federal Centers for Disease Control

Stage 4

Building pool structure. When you get to stage of putting your pool kit together, pay real attention to all levels and measurements. MEASURE TWICE, DO ONCE, check all dimensions are what they are supposed to be, horizontally, vertically and diagonally. If something doesn’t look right, it probably isn’t. This bit may take anything from a day to three or four depending on type of kit used and how much concrete is needed to support structure.

Stage 5

Preparing base. Most D.I.Y. pool kits have liners, most of which be installed on a base of compact sand or, a weak sand and cement screed. A cement base can be smoother than sand and makes for a more professional finish so ask your supplier to see what they recommend. For a sand base, wet sand and use a 45kg compactor or hand garden type roller to flatten base. If concrete is preferred use a semi dry mix, reinforced with metal or fibre, draw a screed rail over surface to make around a 6cm thickness then smooth off with a “taloche” or board type float.

Stage 6

Preparing pool interior. Some liners need around a 4-5” fillet all way around base of pool between walls and floor at 45 degrees so that they are less stressed at seams. Check walls of your pool for any sharp edges and either cover them with duct tape or silicone sealent. Sweep base of pool if it’s a cement base, any holes or digs in base can be covered with a thin layer of just dry cement powder smoothed out. Extra protection for liner can be provided by a felt or foam under lining placed on floor and walls.

Stage 7.

Fitting White Goods. It’s normally at this stage that skimmers, jets, lights, plumbing and any other fittings needed, are cut and fitted into structure of your pool. Skimmers are usually placed at opposite side to inlet jets, take care to measure their positions accurately. Pay attention to all seals and use a suitable sealing compound if required.

TIP: Don’t fit an underwater projector facing a house as they can be far too bright at night.

Stage 8. Installing liner. Ensure all fittings are well sealed and check one last time for any sharp edges. Feel all over floor and if a stone or clump of sand can be felt a quick thump from a hammer will get rid of them. You’ll be surprised how large smallest grains can feel when they are under a piece of felt. Try to fit your liner when it’s a hot day, unfold liner and it will become supple enough to get any creases or folds out.

Secure liner at top of pool and place tube of a vacuum cleaner between liner and pool wall in a central position. Seal off all other gaps and as you begin to add water, smooth out wrinkles in base of pool with your feet. At same time switch on vacuum and liner will sit back against walls of pool getting rid of wrinkles and creases.

TIP: Cut your toenails before you start, long nails can puncture a liner easily when it’s being installed. Stage 9.

Cutting liner. If you have to cut liner in a pool for skimmers, jets, roman end or whatever, always fill pool to just below level of fitting before cutting it out, this way liner will already be stretched into position and will not tear. Pay special attention and make absolutely certain of where you need to cut liner. A hole in wrong place at this stage would not be ideal. You can normally clamp liner into place around whatever you are fitting, then cut out liner, don’t try to cut (by eye) before liner is in place, no-ones free hand is that good!

Stage 10.

Finishing off. Backfilling any pool is one of most laborious jobs to do, especially if you don’t have a digger at hand. Continue to fill pool and backfill at same time. Some pools will need a backfill of dry sand and cement, others use stone for better drainage or just spoil from hole, consult your kit supplier.

Connect your pump and filtration system and fit any marjelles (coping) if required. Any stone marjelles (coping) should be fitted using white cement mixed with a water proofing compound such as hydro-fuge.

That’s it. Your pool is now ready for use, once you have added either salt or chlorine to treat water. Even if you still have to build a terrace you can taste fruits of your labour. Go on dive in!

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