Continued from page 1
Step 4: Truing
second face The thickness planer is by far
best tool to accomplish this. On
jointer it is simple to get
second face true but it is quite difficult to get it parallel to
first.
The thickness planer guides
board and makes
second face exactly parallel to
first. Once
second face is true and parallel to
first continue to plane
board until it reaches
finished thickness, in this case 5/8". Remember to feed
stock with
grain to ensure a smooth clean cut.
Step 5: Square one edge Back to
jointer for this step. Set
jointer fence so it is exactly 90 degrees to
table and be sure
cutting depth is set to 1/16". Determine
direction of
grain and place on face against
jointer fence and make a pass through
cutter applying steady pressure against
fence.
Once you are satisfied that
edge and face are square to each other mark
edge for reference.
Step 6: Square
other edge Now that you have one edge prepared it is back to
table saw to rip
board to width. Set
fence 4-9/16" (1/16" larger then needed). With
marked edge against
table saw fence rip
board. Now return to
jointer and make one final pass, milling
new sawn edge. Be sure that
jointer is set to 1/16".
Step 7: Squaing
ends I prefer to use a table saw to square
end and cut
board to length although a table saw with a miter gauge will work as well. Check that your miter saw is cutting a true 90 degrees and when you are sure it is trim one end of
board, taking as little off as possible. Now measure
finished width of 30" and make
cut taking care to cut on
waste side of
line.
Conclusion: You should now have a board that is 30" x 4-1/2 " x 5/8" with all four sides square to one another.
There are a number of methods that will work for milling a board square, however I have always had good luck using this method.

Dave Markel is the author of "The All Wood Working Journal". He has helped hundreds of individuals improve their wood working skills. Visit his site at http://all-wood-working-plans.com