If you aren't lucky enough to find a local supplier then next best thing is to order it. I have ordered through a couple different companies when my local suppplier doesn't have stock I need. One is in Wisconsin and other Minnisota. Of course you aren't able to look through stock and choose what you want but most places that provide this service gaurentee thier stock.

A few things to be aware of when ordering lumber. First make sure you specify whether you want rough or dressed stock. The main advantage with rough stock is it give you flexiblity to dress wood as you choose. You aren't limited to standard dimensions. Rough stock will cost less up front, but will take some time in shop to prepare. Plus if you don't have all proper tools for dressing lumber it may be more hassle then it is worth.

Dressed lumber is going to cost more but for weekend wood worker this may be worth cost. I have spent quite a bit of time dressing stock before starting a project. If you just want to get to work then this is probably best option for you.

Bottom line... If you have access to a lumber yard that supplies good hardwood and will let you snoop through all stock, then this is probably best option. If not then you need to consider ordering it.

Before ordering or buying lumber it helps to be fluent on terminology used. Hardwood is mostly sold by "board foot". 1 Board Foot is equal to 144 cubic inches. So, for example a 2"x6"x1' board is equal to 1 board foot ( 2in x 6in x 12in = 144 cubic inches).

For your reference here are standard lumber sizes.

4/4 (four/quarter) rough = 1" thick board 5/4 rough = 1.25" thick board 6/4 rough = 1.5" thivk board 8/4 rough = 2" thick board 10/4 rough = 2.5" thick board

4/4 dressed = 3/4" thick board 5/4 dressed = 1" thick board 6/4 dressed = 1.25" thick board 8/4 dressed = 1.75" thick board

Step 4: Truing second face The thickness planer is by far best tool to accomplish this. On jointer it is simple to get second face true but it is quite difficult to get it parallel to first.

The thickness planer guides board and makes second face exactly parallel to first. Once second face is true and parallel to first continue to plane board until it reaches finished thickness, in this case 5/8". Remember to feed stock with grain to ensure a smooth clean cut.

Step 5: Square one edge Back to jointer for this step. Set jointer fence so it is exactly 90 degrees to table and be sure cutting depth is set to 1/16". Determine direction of grain and place on face against jointer fence and make a pass through cutter applying steady pressure against fence.

Once you are satisfied that edge and face are square to each other mark edge for reference.

Step 6: Square other edge Now that you have one edge prepared it is back to table saw to rip board to width. Set fence 4-9/16" (1/16" larger then needed). With marked edge against table saw fence rip board. Now return to jointer and make one final pass, milling new sawn edge. Be sure that jointer is set to 1/16".

Step 7: Squaing ends I prefer to use a table saw to square end and cut board to length although a table saw with a miter gauge will work as well. Check that your miter saw is cutting a true 90 degrees and when you are sure it is trim one end of board, taking as little off as possible. Now measure finished width of 30" and make cut taking care to cut on waste side of line.

Conclusion: You should now have a board that is 30" x 4-1/2 " x 5/8" with all four sides square to one another.

There are a number of methods that will work for milling a board square, however I have always had good luck using this method.