Lumber 101

Written by Dave Markel

Continued from page 1

If you aren't lucky enough to find a local supplier thenrepparttar next best thing is to order it. I have ordered through a couple different companies when my local suppplier doesn't haverepparttar 116179 stock I need. One is in Wisconsin andrepparttar 116180 other Minnisota. Of course you aren't able to look throughrepparttar 116181 stock and choose what you want but most places that provide this service gaurentee thier stock.

A few things to be aware of when ordering lumber. First make sure you specify whether you want rough or dressed stock. The main advantage with rough stock is it give yourepparttar 116182 flexiblity to dressrepparttar 116183 wood as you choose. You aren't limited to standard dimensions. Rough stock will cost less up front, but will take some time inrepparttar 116184 shop to prepare. Plus if you don't have allrepparttar 116185 proper tools for dressing lumber it may be more hassle then it is worth.

Dressed lumber is going to cost more but forrepparttar 116186 weekend wood worker this may be worthrepparttar 116187 cost. I have spent quite a bit of time dressing stock before starting a project. If you just want to get to work then this is probablyrepparttar 116188 best option for you.

Bottom line... If you have access to a lumber yard that supplies good hardwood and will let you snoop through allrepparttar 116189 stock, then this is probablyrepparttar 116190 best option. If not then you need to consider ordering it.

Before ordering or buying lumber it helps to be fluent onrepparttar 116191 terminology used. Hardwood is mostly sold byrepparttar 116192 "board foot". 1 Board Foot is equal to 144 cubic inches. So, for example a 2"x6"x1' board is equal to 1 board foot ( 2in x 6in x 12in = 144 cubic inches).

For your reference here are standard lumber sizes.

4/4 (four/quarter) rough = 1" thick board 5/4 rough = 1.25" thick board 6/4 rough = 1.5" thivk board 8/4 rough = 2" thick board 10/4 rough = 2.5" thick board

4/4 dressed = 3/4" thick board 5/4 dressed = 1" thick board 6/4 dressed = 1.25" thick board 8/4 dressed = 1.75" thick board

Dave Markel is the author of "The All Wood Working Journal". He has helped hundreds of individuals improve their wood working skills. Visit his site at

Milling Four Square Lumber

Written by Dave Markel

Continued from page 1

Step 4: Truingrepparttar second face The thickness planer is by farrepparttar 116178 best tool to accomplish this. Onrepparttar 116179 jointer it is simple to getrepparttar 116180 second face true but it is quite difficult to get it parallel torepparttar 116181 first.

The thickness planer guidesrepparttar 116182 board and makesrepparttar 116183 second face exactly parallel torepparttar 116184 first. Oncerepparttar 116185 second face is true and parallel torepparttar 116186 first continue to planerepparttar 116187 board until it reachesrepparttar 116188 finished thickness, in this case 5/8". Remember to feedrepparttar 116189 stock withrepparttar 116190 grain to ensure a smooth clean cut.

Step 5: Square one edge Back torepparttar 116191 jointer for this step. Setrepparttar 116192 jointer fence so it is exactly 90 degrees torepparttar 116193 table and be surerepparttar 116194 cutting depth is set to 1/16". Determinerepparttar 116195 direction ofrepparttar 116196 grain and place on face againstrepparttar 116197 jointer fence and make a pass throughrepparttar 116198 cutter applying steady pressure againstrepparttar 116199 fence.

Once you are satisfied thatrepparttar 116200 edge and face are square to each other markrepparttar 116201 edge for reference.

Step 6: Squarerepparttar 116202 other edge Now that you have one edge prepared it is back torepparttar 116203 table saw to riprepparttar 116204 board to width. Setrepparttar 116205 fence 4-9/16" (1/16" larger then needed). Withrepparttar 116206 marked edge againstrepparttar 116207 table saw fence riprepparttar 116208 board. Now return torepparttar 116209 jointer and make one final pass, millingrepparttar 116210 new sawn edge. Be sure thatrepparttar 116211 jointer is set to 1/16".

Step 7: Squaingrepparttar 116212 ends I prefer to use a table saw to squarerepparttar 116213 end and cutrepparttar 116214 board to length although a table saw with a miter gauge will work as well. Check that your miter saw is cutting a true 90 degrees and when you are sure it is trim one end ofrepparttar 116215 board, taking as little off as possible. Now measurerepparttar 116216 finished width of 30" and makerepparttar 116217 cut taking care to cut onrepparttar 116218 waste side ofrepparttar 116219 line.

Conclusion: You should now have a board that is 30" x 4-1/2 " x 5/8" with all four sides square to one another.

There are a number of methods that will work for milling a board square, however I have always had good luck using this method.

Dave Markel is the author of "The All Wood Working Journal". He has helped hundreds of individuals improve their wood working skills. Visit his site at

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