Reciprocating, or centrifugal pump lifts greater than 22 feet (sea level) will require a deep-well jet or reciprocating pump. In illustration you will note that upper 10 feet of dug well is filled with earth. A watertight slab is placed over pervious lower section. If you use this type of construction, be sure to include a pipe sleeve large enough to install water pipe and foot valve.

Also install a vent pipe. Cast some hooks in slab so that you will have something to hold on to as you lower it into place. It will be heavy. This type of well is similar to a dug one, except that instead of digging a large hole, you dig one of small diameter. A well borer or earth auger is used to make a hole down to water level.

This system works best in firm sand, clay, or light gravel. The borer looks like a double shovel and has a handle about 4 feet long. As you go down, additional lengths of pipe are added to handle. Digging is done by forcing borer into ground and twisting handle. As double shovel is filled, lift earth out and empty. Keep going till you reach water.

When you find water, line hole with large steel pipe or vitrified tile. Use an internal grapple to lower each section of tile into hole. This lining should extend a little above ground to keep out surface water. Use a concrete platform at top as shown in illustration. The size and type of pump that can be used with this system is same as with dug well described before

Calking joints is done by packing them with strands of oakum. A yarning iron is helpful in getting oakum well pushed down. When joint is about two-thirds full, hammer it all down tight. Fill remainder of opening with molten lead.

When lead is cooler but not set, tap lightly around hub. When it is cool, pound with more force. The stack base end should point toward your septic tank or sewer. I would install lavatory basin next. Part 3 goes on top of part I. You'll find that this fitting will slip up and down in part I. This allows you to adjust height of lavatory basin.

This fitting has three tappings. One is for lavatory basin, second is for kitchen sink, and third for laundry tubs if there are any. Close any unused tappings with cast-iron plugs. Before calking fitting 3, mark on wall where waste pipe from each fixture will enter wall.

Adjust height of part 3 so that height of lower tapping is at same height as lowest waste pipe. Then lower part 3 about 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run to allow for drainage. You are now ready to calk this fitting as you did parts I and 2.

The next step is to install vent pipe. Measure distance from top of part 3 to about I foot above roof. Cut and thread pipe and screw it into lavatory fitting 3. Some systems use an increaser at top of this pipe. If you are going to use cottage only during summer, increaser is an unnecessary part.

Use a standard vent-pipe flashing around top of pipe. You're over worst of it now. The only thing left to do is to run various pipes from fixtures to parts I and 3. Drum trap (4) should be installed below floor, trap cover down, between tub or shower and closet-tub fitting (I).

Where it is necessary to make turns in drainage lines, use 90-degree fittings. To install seat, place closet bolts in closet collar so that threaded ends extend upward through flange. Set collar in floor over top of closet bend and calk in place (5, 6, and 7). The asbestos gasket that comes with seat should be put over closet bottom outlet, seat moved into place, and nuts tightened.

There is drainage system of your cottage--except for disposal unit. If there is a central disposal system or sewer that you can use, it is probable that connections to it will have to be made by a licensed plumber. On other hand, if you are going to install a septic tank, you will want to read on into next section to find out what to do.