Continued from page 1
As
leaders are being received at
chefferie (chiefly house) of Wadrilla near
center of
island, Djoubelly Wea steps forward and shoots
pair dead at point blank range. Wea was reflecting a feeling still palpable in New Caledonia that Tjibaou had sold out to
French and derailed
struggle of independence.
Tjibaou's bodyguard killed Wea,
final shot of
evenements. Today
chefferie of Wadrilla is much
same as it was in 1989, a large thatched case surrounded by a palisade of driftwood logs.
Across
coastal highway, a large monument has been erected to
19 Kanak martyrs of 1988. Designed with two curving white walls to resemble a cave,
monument bears
photo, name, and date of birth of each victim.
Their traditional war clubs have been placed on
back side of
monument and their remains are interred below.
No memorial to Jean-Marie Tjibaou exists on Ouvea but
French have constructed a massive cultural center to his memory in their stronghold Noumea.
In fairness, it must be said that Tjibaou only considered
Matignon Accords a temporary stop on
road to independence. His assassination froze
agreement into a sort of permanent solution which
French have used to justify continuing colonial rule ever since.
The promised 1998 referendum was never held. Instead an updated treaty called
Noumea Accord was signed. This postponed
referendum for another 15 or 20 years and promised many things
French government has yet to deliver.
For example, a key provision creating a special New Caledonian citizenship status intended to control immigration from France was declared unconstitutional by a French court in 1999.
Metros (metropolitan French) continue to flood into
territory (in violation of United nations resolutions on
norms of conduct for colonial powers in non-self-governing areas) and Europeans may soon from a clear majority of
population.
Toward
end of my stay I visited
Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Center in
Tina Peninsula, 12 kilometers northeast of New Caledonia's capital Noumea. Designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, it was built by French contractors between 1994 and 1998 at a cost of over US$50 million. The center opened on May 4, 1998, 10th anniversary of
assassination of Jean-Marie Tjibaou.
No visitor can help but be impressed by
spectacular botanical garden interwoven with references to Kanak legends which encircles
center's three villages.
A contemporary art gallery, temporary and permanent exhibitions of Kanak and other Pacific art, a library, an audiovisual room, indoor and outdoor theaters, and a large ceremonial area are only some of
center's outstanding features.
Yet
Tjibaou Cultural Center presents Kanak culture as a regional folklore rather than a national tradition.
Events such as
Ouvea Massacre and
other murders of
1980s are barely mentioned. A room in Village Three provides photos and texts on
life of Jean-Marie Tjibaou, but there's no explanation as to why he was assassinated or
background of his assassin.
The 19th century land seizures and
muscle flexing and maneuvering that have prevented independence are carefully avoided. The highlight for me was an amazing three-meter-high bronze statue of Tjibaou himself, clad in a Roman toga, on a hill overlooking
center.
Tjibaou was
last real Kanak leader, and in a land where
spirits of
dead have an important role in
lives of
living, his soul must be suffering.
