How to protect stone floors from stainingWritten by Edward Green
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Does seal ever need topping up or replacement? You get picture; The truth is if you do not use a professional Stone Sealer Applicator such as Marble Master you are usually throwing your money down drain. A sealant application professional will be able to help you make correct choice. We offer warranties with all of our applications of stone sealant. The most common home and office stone seal give a 15 Year Warranty. This means to you that if at any time during 15 years sealer doesn't perform whole product is reapplied FREE of charge. Our impregnating sealers make treated indoor or outdoor surfaces easier to clean and maintain and to look good for longer. Dry-Treat does this by using nano-technology i.e. engineering at a molecular level. Our flagship product, STAIN-PROOF : Guards engineering concrete, terracotta tile, cast stone, pavers, sandstone, limestone, brick, slate, marble, granite, porcelain, terrazzo, vitreous tile and grout against damage from water, water borne salts, oil based stains and graffiti; Makes surfaces stay cleaner; Stands up to weather and traffic; Retains a natural look; Eliminates occurrence of efflorescence; Is suitable for a wide variety of home, commercial and industrial applications, including: building facades, floors, walls, stone bench tops, swimming pool surrounds, public areas, patios, garages, kitchens and entertaining areas, and Is backed by a 15 year warranty

Edward Green owns and operates the highly successful Marble Master Ltd company. Marble Master specializes in Restoration and Refinishing of all types of natural stone and consultancy services to Architects, Restoration Companies and Interior Designers. http://www.marblemasteruk.com
| | Framing--the Backbone of your Log CabinWritten by Jack Hudson
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Also be sure that joists are securely spiked to header. Try, as far as possible, to make headers of one continuous piece of material. If this isn't possible, be sure to join pieces over center line of one of piers. Joists members are what your flooring will rest on. The sizes applicable to each building are shown in sectional and plan drawings. In most cases they are 2-by-6-Inch members laid 16 inches on center. I have tried to design all camps so that it will not be necessary to cut most of joists. They are standard lengths which you can purchase from your local lumberyard. Because joint spans are short, it isn't necessary to bridge members. However, if you want a really good job, put l-by-3-inch pieces of lumber between joists as shown in sketch at side. You can also buy metal bridging if you would rather use it. Bridging is usually done every 8 feet along length of joist. The floor joists are typically designed to take a uniform load of 40 pounds. The fiber stress (f) is 900 or over. Don't worry your head about these figures. What it means to you is that you should use Douglas fir (Coast Region or Inland Empire), West Coast hemlock, Western larch, Southern yellow pine, redwood, oak, or any other wood having necessary characteristics. Most yards carry either Douglas fir or hemlock for framing purposes.

About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for building a log home or choosing a house plan.
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