Some, like roundworm, that infect dogs can also get passed on to children.

In more serious cases, your dog will catch cough, pneumonia and develop lung problems.

There are different types of worms that infect dogs such as tapeworm, roundworm, ringworm and heartworm. De-worm your Boxer puppy every month and your grown Boxer, every 6 months.

Puppies get sick from worms, more so than dogs.

But your infected grown Boxers help spread worms more through their droppings that would contain large number of larvae and/or eggs.

Released into surrounding, these larvae and eggs could infect other animals and even children.

The tapeworms have a flat, segmented body.

You see them as single segments or chains that resemble segments of rice in droppings of infected canine.

Part of tapewormÆs life cycle occurs in flea as host. Therefore, if your Boxer has tapeworms, it has fleas too and treatments for both are usually prescribed together by vet.

The roundworms (toxocara) live and produce hundreds of eggs in intestine.

They cause digestive upset in puppies, poor growth, and thin or out-of-conditioned coat.

The infected puppies may become listless, have a potbelly or tucked in appearance.

Once roundworms migrated from gut to lungs, your Boxer can suffer lung damage, cough and pneumonia.

The roundworm eggs in dog droppings get passed out and about.

These are very hardy eggs, resistant to heat and cold, and can survive up to 7 years in soil. The eggs can pass on to children through ingestion and cause them to fall sick as well.

As precautions, you can toilet train your Boxer puppy to use a place where you can easily clean up and dispose of droppings into sewer. Have your children wash their hands every time after they handle puppies and discourage your puppies from licking people hands or faces.

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Over time, work on getting him to drop his head down where you can easily put on a halter.

Smart Tip #3: Quick Lunge

If you have a minute or two, before you feed your horse slip on a halter with a lead rope. Lunge your horse left and right a few times and get him to back up and come forward. You can accomplish this in just about two minutes.

Smart Tip #4: Pick Up The Feet

Before feeding your horse, go pick up his feet. You should start with front feet. Remember to reward each time he does what you ask. Then go to back feet. If your horse is sensitive about picking up his feet you can make amazing breakthroughs over time by doing this in just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #5: Brush Your Horse

Before feeding, approach your horse with a halter and brush in hand. Put on halter then brush him. You do this because you want him to associate halter with pleasure and he'll come to you almost every time. Thus, whenever you want to ride or work with him, and you approach with a halter, he's more willing to let you catch him