4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put 2" rubber gasket on tank where it sets on bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under bolt head so they will be on inside of tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from inside of tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, and snug up bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between back of tank and wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.

Maintenance:

At least twice a year clean out inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning toilet tank, turn off water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining and use a cloth or brush to clean. Also clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of bowl as well as 3/4" hole in bottom of toilet bowl. Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed. Maintaining your new toilet will keep plumber away and reduce your plumbing bill.

HAND-PEELED OR MILLED: (or anything in between). Hand-crafted log homes are just that: logs are cut and peeled by hand with a draw-knife, which creates a uneven surface along log. For an even more rustic look, some of bark is left intact. If log is milled, machine takes off layer of bark, leaving a fairly smooth surface to log. This can be sanded to a fine finish, if you have enough time or money. Sometimes, manufacturer might take that milled log and run a draw-knife across it to make it look peeled. The type of finish is totally up to buyer.

CHINKING vs. CAULKING: Chinking is historically done to a hand-crafted log home in order to keep wind from howling in between logs. It looks like a broad white band between log courses. When cut by hand, logs can be scribed so that an upper log is shaped to match contours of log beneath it. However, not all logs are scribed; some just rest atop log below, creating large gaps in uneven surface. Either way, handcrafted log homes tend to be chinked, which was historically a mix of clay, sand, lime, mud, thatch, you name it, but is now an acrylic compound which expands and contracts with wood. Some homes still require chinking, and others use chinking for aesthetic purposes.

Many milled log homes are actually caulked with an acrylic product designed for log homes. This comes out of a caulking gun, and creates a neat, finished look as well as protecting seams from infiltration. We tend to caulk milled homes or do nothing at all between log courses, because joinery system is so tight that this step is not mandatory.

Every log home is unique, and each has its own personality. It's amazing how many different construction systems are available to create homes out of logs, and every style has its own characteristics. But overall, no matter what your log home looks like, cozy warmth of logs cannot be duplicated in any other kind of house.