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Aswan was
source of
granite stone that
Pharaohs favoured for building temples and other monuments. The Northern Quarries are
site of
giant Unfinished Obelisk. Had
obelisk been successfully completed, it would be
single heaviest piece of monolithic stonework -reaching about 42 m and weiging over 1168 tonnes. It must have broken
hearts of
builders, who supposedly abandoned it, after coming across defects in
rock formation.
The next stop on
cruise is Kom Ombo, 48 km to
north of Aswan. The main attraction here is
Graeco-Roman temple. Work on
temple was started by Ptolemy VII in early second century BC and continued by some of his successors. The Romans Emperor Augustus built part of
temple at around 30 BC. The Temple of Kom Ombo actually consists of two separate temples, each with its own entrance, colonnades, hypostyle hall and sanctuary. The southern temple is dedicated to Sobek -the crocodile god, while
northern one honours Horus -the falcon god.
Though
two gods shared
same grounds, in mythology, Sobek was associated with
god Seth, an enemy of Horus. At Kom Ombo,
gods took
liberty to bring along family - Sobek sneaked in his consort Hathor and son Khonsu, while Horus had his wife Tesentnefert and son, Panebtawy. If you have not seen mummies before, be sure to see
mummified crocodiles in
Sobek part of
temple.
At Edfu, you disembark to see
Temple of Horus. Edfu was
cult centre of Horus
falcon god. It is perhaps
best preserved of ancient temples of Egypt. The temple standing today was started by Ptolemy III at about 237 BC on
site of an earlier Pharaonic structure. Work continued under some of
Ptolemies that followed. Appropriately,
entrance adorned by two majestic granite falcons. The walls bear reliefs depicting Horus. One scene would please any tyrant -it shows Ptolemy XII dealing mercilessly with his enemies.
You next stop and highlight of
cruise is Luxor. The range, magnificence and diversity of
monuments in
Luxor area is unsurpassed in all of Egypt. Known to
Greeks as Thebes, Luxor became
capital of Egypt at around 2040 BC. The city survived
sacking by
Assyrians in
7th century BC, but steadily declined, and was finally destroyed by
Romans in
first century BC. Among
celebrated monuments dating from Luxor's heydays are
necropolis complexes at
Valley of
Kings, Valley of
Queens and Tombs of
Nobles. You will also come across some outstanding temples scattered in
region.
The Egyptians buried their dead in
direction of
setting sun and
west bank at Luxor was
final resting place of royalty and high officials. The Valley of Kings is where
rulers of
period historians refer to as
New Kingdom period (BC 1550-1070) awaited
afterlife. The Pharaoh normally picked
spot for his tomb and had it built in his lifetime. Tomb building for royalty and high officials was very serious business and it supported a battery of architects and craftsmen, who had a settlement in
valley. The valley contains over 60 tombs that have so far been excavated.
The tombs have suffered in recent years due to increased number of visitors, pollution and
rising ground water that has come with
Aswan High Dam. For this reason, not all of them are open to
public at any one time. Unless you are a scholar, visiting three or four tombs should be sufficient. Among
best tombs are those of Ramses I, Tuthmosis III and Ramses VI. Tutankhamun's is today
most famous - though he is not considered a significant Pharaoh and he died at only nineteen.
Treasure hunters had over
years looted most tombs in
valley. But Howard Carter,
British archeologist, discovered Tutankhamun's tomb almost intact in 1922. The treasure that was found here is truly amazing- statues, chests, chariots, beds, weapons, and many items he needed for
afterlife. The main item today at Tutankhamun's tomb is his mummy. About 1700 items recovered at
tomb are now at display at
Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The most outstanding of
collection is
11 kg solid gold death mask. Imagine then, what
looters carried off from
bigger tombs of
more illustrious Pharaohs!
On
other side of
Valley of Kings is
Temple of Deir el-Bahri, built by Queen Hatshepsut. Hatseput. The temple is very impressive from a distance and is a great place to take photos. The name Valley of
Queens is misleading, as both male and female royals and some high officials were interred here. About 80 tombs have been identified, of which
most famous is that of Queen Nefertari. Take more photos at
Colossi of Memnon -two huge statues that are
sole legacy of
temple of Amenhotep III.
Amenhotep III also built
Temple of Luxor on
east bank. The temple was dedicated to
god Amon, though inside you also find a shrine dedicated to Alexander
Great. The temple's entrance is lined with Sphinxes, and inside you find colonnades, courts, obelisks and wall murals. The mosque of Shaykh Yusuf Abu al-Hajjaj was built on top of part of
temple. You can also visit
Luxor Museum, which has interesting exhibits from
area.
The incredibly impressive Temple of Karnak is a huge complex that was dedicated to
god Amon. In
New Kingdom period, this was
most important temple is Egypt. It is probably
largest religious building ever and it can carry no less than 10 average Christian cathedrals. Some of
interesting structures within
complex are
gigantic hypostyle hall,
Kiosk of Tarhaka, statue of Ramses II, temple of Ramses III and
sacred lake.
The best time to take a Nile cruise is over
cooler months of November - March. These are also
peak months and to avoid crowds, always start out early each day. October, at
end
hot season is tolerable, especially when you factor in that it falls with off-season period: it is cheaper ad less crowded. When visiting
monuments, you are advised to hire a guide who will explain
historical context at each site. If you are on a Nile Cruise package,
services of a guide will usually be included.
You do a lot of walking, and you need to bring along suitable shoes. Other items you ware encouraged to pack are: sunglasses and sun screen lotion. Remember also to carry bottled water and photographic film, which you can buy at
cruiser or at a bazaar. Light clothing is generally recommended though you may need a sweater and jacket for winter evenings.
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Andrew Muigai is editor of AfricaPoint Insider online newsletter. It is part of AfricaPoint.com- the Africa travel website that has helped thousands of travelers discover Africa. You can view more info on Tanzania safari and tours at the website.