Continued from page 1
Scouring (30-45 minutes) - Surfactants are used at 38oC to remove dirt and grease (lanolin) from
wool.
Pickling (16 hours) - Prior to tanning,
skins are pickled in a solution containing acid and salt. The salt is added to prevent swelling of
skins by
acid. The internal pH of
skins is lowered to approximately 2.8-3.0, thereby preparing
skins for penetration by
tanning agent.
Tanning (16 hours) - Tanning is generally achieved by using chromium salts which form cross-links with
collagen, stabilising
skin structure and preventing putrefaction. The tanning step is conducted at about 25oC and pH 2.5-3.0 to allow for penetration of
chrome. Once penetrated,
chrome is fixed to
collagen by raising
pH to about 3.6 using sodium bicarbonate, and heating to about 35-40oC. This step raises
shrinkage temperature of
skin from about 60oC to around 100oC.
Wool Dyeing / Fatliquoring (3-4 hours) - After tanning,
wool may be dyed a variety of colours. Wool dyeing is performed at about pH 4.5-6 and at 60-65oC, "Pelt reserve agents" being added to prevent
wool dye staining
pelt. After
dye is exhausted,
pH is lowered to about 4.0 to fix
dyes to
wool, and fatliquor is added to
bath. Fatliquors are emulsified oils which are used in leather manufacture to lubricate
collagen fibres, allowing them to move freely when
skin is dried, thereby imparting softness to
skin.
Drying (4-24 hours) - Once tanned and wool dyed,
skins are then dried in heated forced-air dryers by "toggling"
skins to a frame. Drying is conducted at temperatures of 50-80oC.
Drycleaning (4-24 hours) - The dried skins are "drycleaned" in either white spirit (a high-boiling petroleum fraction) or perchloroethylene. The drycleaning removes
natural fat and grease present within
skins.
Pelt Dyeing / Syntanning - Once
pelt grease is removed,
skins are returned to
paddle for pelt dyeing. This step is performed at low temperature (less than 30oC) in order to minimise staining of
wool by
pelt dye. After pelt dyeing,
skins are "syntanned" using synthetic tanning agents in order to give
pelts added fullness and firmness. The skins are then redried.
Step 2. Finishing
Once all
tanning and processing steps have been completed,
skins are ready for final finishing prior to being used in ugg boot manufacture.
Staking - After "conditioning"
skins to approximately 20% moisture content,
skins are staked in a staking machine. This softens and stretches
skin pelt, and puts a "nap" on
pelt surface.
Combing / Ironing / Clipping - The wool is combed in a combing machine to remove tangles and any burrs or grass seeds present in
wool. An iron (a hot, 150oC revolving cylinder) straightens
wool, removing
natural wool crimp. Finally, a cylinder clipping machine is used to clip
wool pile to
desired length, usually about 12-15 mm.
Step 3. Manufacturing
Panels are cut from
skins using a "clicking press". Once cut,
panels are sewn together using industrial sewing machines, then
sole is glued to
boot. Once this is done,
boots are ready for sale!

Hopefully this article has helped you understand a little on the process of sheepskin hide preperation and ugg boot manfacture. Please feel free to browse our range at:
Australian Ugg Boots