This species, native to China, Korea and Japan, has been made into a number of different rose cultivars. It is a fast growing pink flower with rose-hips resembling small tomatoes. It prefers full sunlight and well-drained acidic soil. Since it is a salt-tolerant plant, it is an ideal shrub in coastal conditions. Light infrequent pruning will help keep growth of rosa rugosa under control.

Rosa Foliolosa

This is a member of rosaceae family and is also know as leafy rose or prairie rose. The rosa foliolosa is a lovely little rose found mainly in Central and North Central Texas, Oklahoma and Arkansas. It is small in size with very thin wood, very elegant little foliage, with usually nine tiny leaflets per leaf. One of its great characteristics is its fern-like bright green foliage.

Rosa Blanda

Another member of rosaceae family, rosa blanda, also known as meadow rose is a shrub-like thornless plant which grows to about three to four feet tall and prefers rich soil in full sun to light shade. It produces lovely pink flowers between June and August and fruit resembles small apples.

Ken Austin
Roses and Rose Gardening

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Plants such as Ligularia need loads of moisture. To truly enjoy these types of plants you must keep soil moist at all times. So to plant these in a happy spot, average garden soil (50/50 peat-topsoil mix) must have good composted humus worked in and layed on top as a mulch. This holds water and coolness where it is needed for roots to stay wet enough. Another neat trick I have seen that might aid in keeping these hungry types lush would be a water reservoir or two at their bases. Using an inverted 20 oz. pop bottle with cap on and bottom cut off. Then 3/4 of way up bottle poke a small hole every inch. The water in reservoir only leaks out when water in soil is depleated. So it slowly oozes moisture where it is needed. Refilling it would depend on heat index and amount of rainfall or irrigation in a given spot. To keep soil from filling bottle, a peice of landscape fabric, a hunk of old polyester fabric, or even foot of an old nylon stocking, rubber banded in place allows moisture in while keeping most of dirt from washing into your reservoir.

If tulip bulbs are rotting in an area due to heavy spring and fall moisture a more aggressive drain system is needed that will carry water down and out more quickly. Water runs down hill, so an incline to your drain bed is needed. The more water, more layers of decreasing size fill is needed and deeper one must go to drain area. BEWARE! Sometimes you can over do drainge and even daily watering will not keep things moist enough! If that problem occurs, excavate and change your "recipe" to lessen sharpness of draining. As with all things, experience is good guidance as to what is enough and what is too much. Heavy water problems can be solved with this system. The bigger area, bigger your drain field. Using successive layers of 1-2" roofing stone, pea gravel, coarse sand and topsoil or garden soil. Some drains go down a whole foot or more. The layered field can also be used with slotted tile pipe in a sock, attatched to solid pipe in some severe situations. A one to two inch decline over many feet can take a "pond" in your lawn or garden out to woods or curb; to an area that it is no longer a detriment to whatever you are trying to grow in that spot. This same system was used repeatedly over coarse of decades by my father who specialized in "corrective drainage" while in landscape contracting field in. We employed it in many planting areas of customers yards with much greater success of what we could grow in any given customer's yard. (It was also used to correct basement flooding.) This will widen choices of what you can grow together under "normal" garden conditions quite a bit, no matter what your limitations are at moment.

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