Continued from page 1
Climbing Mount Shasta
"Apparently they start very early," John grumbled. It was dark, but there were lights and noise from
tents around us. I stood up, and I saw lights on
mountain a thousand up. It was 5:30 a.m. Hmm... climbers start early. With that new insight, we packed our daypacks, hid our big backpacks in
rocks, and stepped onto
ice.
Helen Lake was a mile of ups and downs, through sun-dished ice. Then we reached
loose rock at
base of a steep slope, in Avalanche Gully. We started climbing Mount Shasta. an hour later, we quit.
"I can't do it," John gasped. "Can't get enough air." We were at about 11,000 feet, and we knew there was less oxygen, but this was
first time John had actually been this high on foot. I once drove higher in Colorado, but apparently driving wasn't a strenuous enough for me to notice
thinner air. I noticed it here. We both did. We sat down and rested for a minute.
"Are you sure," I asked. He was - I wasn't. It was light now, and John didn't see any problem hiking down
four hours to
car alone. I would go on to
summit, and then come back down by evening. I had to continue. Mount Shasta was my first mountain, and I hadn't even used
poop bag yet.
Altitude Sickness
The "Red Bank" is a line of broken cliffs above Avalanche Gully. I scrambled, climbed, slipped on ice, and eventually found a way up and over. Then there were long steep slopes covered in loose rocks, with a few bamboo sticks marking
way. My route converged with that of
other climbers, who had come up
snow-slope route with crampons and ice axes.
After much climbing, I finally made it to
summit, which is called Misery hill, because it isn't actually
summit. It just seems like it should be. There was still a mile of snow to cross, and then more rocky terrain. One snow field had three-foot-high peaks covering it, like a huge merange pie.
I rested a moment, and realized I'd been hearing a new sound. Bang! Bang! Bang! It was
inside of my head, which had never been so loud before. Hmm...interesting. I got used to
noise and pain after an hour or so.
I got used to
smell of sulphur too. Mount Shasta, it turns out, is a volcano. When John Muir climbed it more than a hundred years earlier, he had to huddle next to
hot sulphur gas vents to survive a night near
peak. He was alternately freezing and burning.
At The Top Of Mount Shasta
"So this is
top?" I mumbled lamely to
guy who had just told me
John Muir story. Clouds, and smoke from forest fires, obscured
view in every direction, but it felt good to be so high, and down to
east, I saw my first glacier, a few hundred feet below.
"You can write your name in
register there,"
guy told me, pointing to something in
rocks. Guestbooks on top of mountains? Another lesson for
day. I signed in, wrote some comment, and started down
mountain.
Sun cups, or whatever they call those depresions in
snow, fill with water in
warm afternoon sun - another discovery. I'd climb out of one ten-foot-wide bowl and slide into
pond at
bottom of
next. This was
pattern until I thankfully reached
ankle-twisting mile of rocks piled up below Helen Lake. Climbing down, I realized, is more difficult than climbing up, or at least more dangerous.
I found
trail, my headache disappeared, I reached
road, where John was waiting. By evening we were driving towards Michigan, Mount Shasta hidden in
clouds and smoke behind us. Oh, and yes, I did get to use
poop bag. Somewhere around 11,500 feet, I think, which I remembered when I was looking through my pack. "Pull over at
nearest garbage can," I told John.

Steve Gillman is a long-time backpacker, and advocate ultralight backpacking. His advice and stories can be found at http://www.The-Ultralight-Site.com