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I turned and approached
city's wall at its most eastern point, where I felt
hair standing on my neck, my pulse quickening. The only part of
wall still standing had three huge holes punched through by Roman battering rams. The massive wounds, where warriors gushed through, gaped to allow five of me. As I stepped through, I felt
desperation and fear
Gamlans felt - followers of a single deity being attacked by many-godded warriors. I gasped for air, imagining huge men leaping through, raging and blood-thirsty. I stepped to
outside of
city, tentatively touching
black stones, feeling their warmth, their sadness.
I re-entered
city through
main gates, purposely saving
synagogue for last. As mere shadow of its former elegance, God's black basalt home now reach only 3 or 4 feet of wall height. I sat on
delicately carved benches marking
out edges of
single room, and imagined
residents praying, as I did then ' asking for help, expressing gratitude for miracles, little and large. I saw birds of prey, circling and diving overhead, as they surely most have 2,000 years before, and I suddenly felt
grip of unimaginable loss. I wiped away unexpected tears.
According to
park brochure, Gamla and
whole Golan was recovered during
Six-Day War in June 1967. That summer, Israeli forces annexed
Golan, a precious land with military importance not lost on
Syrians. The hills of
Golan overlook
entire Kinneret Valley, and they had given a perfect, peeping-Tom view of Israeli goings-on. Even though
Golan represents less than 1% of
total land mass of Syria, it is so important that
Syrian government has refused to join with Egypt and Jordan in signing a peace treaty with Israel until
Golan is returned.
Slowly, I identified my grief. I knew that if Syria took
Golan back, I probably could never visit this lovely synagogue again.
I returned to
car with an empty water bottle, and we three women drove 20 kilometers down
road to Katzrin, a new Israeli town, sparkling white, squeaky clean. Like all new towns in
Golan, it was built expressly to expand
Israeli population, so that returning
land to Syria would be more difficult. Among
shimmering new homes, shopping centers, and schools, a small, elegant, air-conditioned museum displayed Gamla's articles of wealth and destruction - pots, ceramics, coins, and uncountable roman spear- and arrowheads.
A 20-minute film told Gamla's story. As an American, I was dimly aware that I was watching those people living and dying all of Jewish history. For Nava and Karni, it was second nature. These two women, now part of my family, saw, at once, all
fights and deaths of
early resistors,
six million victims of
Holocaust, and
deaths caused by suicide bombers. The presentation concluded with
words, "Gamla will never fall again." As
lights came up, both Nava and Karni dabbed tears of patriotism and grief.
It was then that I understood that
tensions in
Middle East are not just about where
borders of Israel and Palestinian territories are. Our current situation did not start with
independence of Israel in 1948. This is a conflict that started thousands of years before for reasons no one really remembers. It is something that lives in
desert air breathed by all who live and travel here.
Read this entire feature FREE with photos at http://www.jetsettersmagazine.com/archive/jetezine/globe02/Mideast02/gamla/gamla.html
By Cymber Quinn - Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent - at www.jetsettersmagazine.com
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Cymber Quinn - Jetsetters Magazine. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com