Your betta should go for food right away, but if not, watch where food sinks, and what betta does. If more than 15 min he has not eaten food yet, remove food. Never let water go cloudy. If it is already, then change it, as cloudy water will threaten your betta’s health. Normally, small bowls or containers should be changed at least twice a week. Larger tank can be changed once a week. And notice if ammonia and nitrite levels are up roof, because both are very bad for your Betta. Also be wary of harmful bacteria they can ruin your fish life, but don’t kill of all bacteria in aquarium since a lot of bacteria is essential for a well functioning aquarium.

During pre-spawning period you can feed a wide variety of food, including blackworms, Grindal worms, fruit flies, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae and frozen blood worms (all are life except frozen blood worms). During this period adult fish may be fed 4 times per day or more depending on how close fish are to being placed into spawning tank.

You can start feeding your betta fry, 5 days after spawning. Feed fry several times per day, using a variety of foods (infusoria, boiled egg yolk, baby brine shrimp…) made up of small particles.

The dwarf gourami has diagonal turquoise blue stripes on their reddish orange body. The males are larger and more colorful than females. The male becomes very brightly colored at spawning time. Their nature and needs of treatment are similar to those of pearl gouramis, they will eat anything they are being feed, however they prefer live foods and prepared mixtures. Best spawned in a separate aquarium especially setup for this purpose. Place a well-conditioned pair into a 40-liter or 60-liter, thickly planted aquarium with a lot of floating plants. The spawn can consist of 300 to 700 eggs. After spawning is completed, female should be removed. The male will tend spawn until fry become free swimming, and then he should be removed too.

The males of honey gourami have beautiful bright orange-yellow color. The females are plain, have slightly shaded brownish orange body with a silvery fluorescent glow. They prefer aquariums with some thickly planted areas and with some open swimming areas. They usually eat anything you provide them with. These fish are moderately easy to breed, though a little more difficult than dwarf gourami. For a pair, prepare a 40-liter aquarium without air stone or filter. The male will build a large bubble nest. The eggs will when laid float up into bubble nest, where male will guard over them until they hatch and fry becomes free swimming, which is when he should be removed. The female should be removed right after spawning.